Removing shield and diode 7E for better reach

***Side note for all you newbies like me. I found my info for this both on rcgroups and here. BUT, ALL the information actually originated from...HERE.

So, my point? Don't always just use the search function for what your looking for on here. Browse around and pay attention to what your looking at--even if you don't think it'll have info you need.

i.e. I was looking for this info specifically. Little did I realize there's a pdf document for adding different module to our Devo TX's. What that means is--there's pinouts for people to do that and in turn that helps me out to do this.

(Btw, it's under: downloads, then documentation, then at the bottom titled "moduleinstalation.pdf")

Hey to suzali and all others looking for my "pic by pic how to"...

Sorry, but I decided against posting it because it's messy. Not clear at all. Would not help any of you and would only have confused some people. Just follow the diagrams and you'll do fine.

Word to the wise however.... be careful unsoldering the old module off. You do not want to remove too much of the solder (aka pad) off the circuit board. It makes attaching the wires for the new module very unfun. I did this to 2 of them and kicked myself for it later

hello!
i read this topic and i have a question:
do we have to modify something in the tx.ini file or is it
only necessary to short the diode?
thanks

Yes it is necessary but is by far the easy part of this mod. Just install notepad++ and follow directions earlier thread. If memory serves it is necessary to keep transmitter from operating at an unneeded high power setting.

christx wrote: hello!
i read this topic and i have a question:
do we have to modify something in the tx.ini file or is it
only necessary to short the diode?
thanks

This post should fill you in.
www.hacksmods.com/2013/04/walkera-devo-7...-increase-range-mod/

Hello,
After the diode removed and replaced by welding, I heard at the buzzer a light snoring increases when the power is increased. This noise has the same intensity regardless of the volume setting except OFF and 8, 9 and 10 when the feathers on the way down or ascent. I have not made my trials of reach, but have you noticed the same thing?
Otherwise I thank the entire community for the work done.

Yes, it's common. The buzzer is exposed right in the middle. And it picks up the increase radio signal.

I wonder if some foil will shield and prevent the unwanted noise.

OK, I was a little scared because my welding was not great and I have already closed the shield. Soon I will do my testing power and try to put a shielding on the buzzer, but will it connect to the negative? I'll let you know it will serve everyone.
Thank you for for your reply.

I made a screen with aluminum foil, but it was not effective, the buzzer noise was still there. I think that the increase in power generates interference may be in the power buzzer wires, but my knowledge does not allow me to go further, this is a matter for specialists. So I will stay with this noise, which is not too loud.

I write this because I have tried this on another TX that has not been changed and there is still some noise in the buzzer. So the fact of removing the diode does not like unpleasant makes the TX.

I have done the diode mod a few times but I just did another mod and I only get 7m range. Can someone tell me what may have possibly gone wrong?

If I recall correct. If the diode was improperly bridge and the circuit isn't complete. You get a reduced range.

I just wanted to say thanks for the work done here. I just completed the final mod to my 7E, The range mod. I just now tested it, Here is how...

i placed my Rx (ar6200 - DSM2) on the open lid of my mail box with the flashing LED facing me and set the power on my Tx to it's lowest power 100uw. i began to walk down my street until the light stopped. At its lowest power i could walk 30 feet i then stood still, raised the power one notch, waited for the light to begin flashing and continued to walk away.
I did this until i reached 100mw, one notch from the highest setting. that distance was 700 feet. i measured it with google maps. at 700 feet and 100mw the light was still flashing but i could not walk any further as it was the end of the street.
The environment was a very populated urban city with dozens of WiFi hotspots from all the houses. Also i had 4 sub-micro servos and a 4.2v lipo powering the Rx and at 700 feet i jammed all the servos as fast as i could to try and brown out the Rx but it was solid. (there was no load on the servos though)

@badfrogg...
Original antenna?
Into which direction was the antenna pointing that time?

Yes Original antenna. i was walking down the street with the Tx at my side , so the antenna was pointing away while i was walking than pointed towards when i tuned to look at the Rx.

I read in a earlier post that removing, bridging or shorting the diode has NO affect on range when the A7105 mod is in place. Meaning the range MOD will have no affect on the range with the A7105 (flying the Hubsan x4). Can someone please verify this for me? Thanks!! Since I'm only using this TX for the X4, I don't want to waste my time doing the Range Mod if it's not going to benefit my range with my X4. Please advise. Thanks so much!

Short answer: no, you don't need the diode mod

Long answer: each module has its own transmitting portion (might or might not have an amplifier, but each still have a radio). So, when using the A7105 protocols, the diode mod makes no difference. The diode mod is for the built-in module (Walkera, DSM2/DSMX, etc). That module is a "crippled" module, and the diode reduces the Tx power. By shorting the diode, you can restore the full power of that power amplifier

But, even if it made a difference, it would not be worth doing, since you can't fly the X4 far enough to make a difference that's why some people use a A7105 without a power amplifier (I did for a while, had more than enough range to completely lose orientation well before the X4 was out of radio range)

Since the diode mod is one of the most difficult mods (much harder than adding switches and modules, even if you use the conductive ink trick), I'd avoid doing it if you don't plan to use DSMX or Walkera (at least for now, can always do it hen needed)

Speaking of conductive ink, here's a good way (much cheaper than alternatives) to do it: www.ebay.com/itm/390614991342

If you go that way, please be sure to practice on a piece of paper first: the plunger might be a bit hard to move when new, and it's very easy to put a huge blob of conductive ink over everything needless to say, your module won't be happy to be randomly shorted. Once the ink is on the board, it's hard to remove (relatively easy if you have a tiny dollop, but very hard if you douse your board with it)

Thanks for the confirmation of not needing to mess with the diode. Can't wait to get my A7105 from china!

BTW, Do you know of a Hubsan X4 ini file that mimics the stock set up? I want a swith to control Normal mode and Expert. Thanks in advance!!!