Removing shield and diode 7E for better reach

BTW, Do you know of a Hubsan X4 ini file that mimics the stock set up? I want a swith to control Normal mode and Expert. Thanks in advance!!!

robca wrote: ....

But, even if it made a difference, it would not be worth doing, since you can't fly the X4 far enough to make a difference that's why some people use a A7105 without a power amplifier (I did for a while, had more than enough range to completely lose orientation well before the X4 was out of radio range)

Since the diode mod is one of the most difficult mods (much harder than adding switches and modules, even if you use the conductive ink trick), I'd avoid doing it if you don't plan to use DSMX or Walkera (at least for now, can always do it hen needed)

Just to give you an impression how tiny this part is .
The piece of money is one Euro. So please think twice how to do this mod.

Hey guys..

thanks for this hack, its great.

sadly i had a problem on soldering the short. After soldering, I test the tightness of the soldered short-wire and wrenched off the upper solderpoint

Finaly I solder a short from the bottom solderpoint to the left solderpoint of the diode above (like the arrow in picture).





My problem is, that nothing works. I cant change the transmitter-power in the settings (stays on default) and I get no connection to my receiver

Is there another conductor from the upper solderpoint than I see?

Anyone a suggestion for me?

Thanks in advance.

kind regards, Thorsten

That´s a photo from HackMods, isn´t it?

Check if part on the left, next to the lower diode solder pad, is right in place.
The described connection will work because I can´t see a through-connection
at the upper pad.







Edit: Did you edit the hardware.ini?

Hi aMax.

Thanks for your fast reply!

Photo is from HackMods, right.

First after my post, I thought to recheck everything again and rebind the receiver, and
tada.. the connection works.

So the first problem solved.

Second problem was the unchanged tx.ini, so, now I can change the tx power.
So, thank you very much for your help, aMax.

The only think I'll be worried about, is a very low buzz and if I increase the tx-power, the buzz increases. Mainly at 100 and 150mW.

Is this normal? I had the shield of, could that be the reason?

kind regards, Thorsten

Please put the shield back on....

Since this nightly, ...devo7e-v4.0.1-92e1705....the buzzing sound has gone.

Btw, I had this buzzing even before the mod.

Hey Guys.

I can change the transmitter power (set to 150mw), get the buzzing sound (I'm on the last stable now), so something happens inside, but the range is decreased.

I got only 30 to 50m instead of 70-80m before the mod.

Something goes wrong. How can I find out what and how I can solve it?


kind regards, Thorsten

After 2 days waiting to dry the conductive ink, today I tested outside my range Mod with conductive ink.
I tested with an Spektrum AR6100E, it's a Parkflyer receiver so don't expect a fantastic range. I loose signal at about 120 meters.
Do you think the mod is working?

Sorry, but I forget to test before mod the cyrf module

karl007 wrote: Hey Guys.

I can change the transmitter power (set to 150mw), get the buzzing sound (I'm on the last stable now), so something happens inside, but the range is decreased.

I got only 30 to 50m instead of 70-80m before the mod.

Something goes wrong. How can I find out what and how I can solve it?


kind regards, Thorsten

Please do a range test at 100uW and report.
I already told, you get rid of the buzz with the nightly of 01 Aug 2014.

BTW.. at this range I am flying at 10mW (even 03mW possible)

Keep in mind, that the china toys are mostly at 0dBm or with a good antenna
at 2dBm (0dBm=1mW; 2dBm=1.58 mW).

The standart Devo7e claimed to be at 9dBm=7.9mW at max.

EDIT:
Data sheet indicates,the CYRF6936 itself has a transmit power up to +4 dBm, which is 2.5 mW without PA.

That´s a job for Seby and his RF power meter....

@Durete

Is this your RF modul...?
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1918045&page=185
What Rev is it? ? Imprint "0314" on the modul. Must be a never version, I don´t have that.

@karl007
...aaarg. ..forgot to reply your main question.
Take a MM and messure the current draw of the tx at different power settings.
Should raise round about 60mA from low to top mW output.

aMax wrote: @Durete

Is this your RF modul...?
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1918045&page=185
What Rev is it? ? Imprint "0314" on the modul. Must be a never version, I don´t have that.

Yes, it's my Module. I have my Devo from about 2 months ago, so probably the Cyrf module is one of latest version.
I need to check with another full range receiver, or with my DX7 to see if another receiver make the difference.
Anyone knows the power output for the DX7?
If I remember ok, the USA version (I bought imported from USA) have 100mw...

Durete wrote:

aMax wrote: @Durete

Is this your RF modul...?
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1918045&page=185
What Rev is it? ? Imprint "0314" on the modul. Must be a never version, I don´t have that.

Yes, it's my Module. I have my Devo from about 2 months ago, so probably the Cyrf module is one of latest version.
I need to check with another full range receiver, or with my DX7 to see if another receiver make the difference.
Anyone knows the power output for the DX7?
If I remember ok, the USA version (I bought imported from USA) have 100mw...

DX7EU nearly 108mW, DX7US nearly 230mW, hence it´s difficult to compare with the Devo.

Edit: If you like to know more, visit....
www.modellbau-tester.de/spektrum-dx7-dop...-natuerlich-illegal/
Google translate assists you....

So my DX7 have about 230mw

Thanks!

I will report with future tests, but probably next week I will remove the shield of the Cyrf module to check everything is ok.
Probably, finally I will solder the bridge at the diode if I'm not sure the mod is working with the conductive ink.

Easest way is to use smd 0 ohm bridge. Have a look at a defect PC(GFX) card.
This part is pre-tinned and rest flat on the pads.
If pressed down with e.g. a scalpel, it will not move while soldering.

Hot and short soldering (max 1.5-2 sec) will guide you to sucess.
(apply few flux prior on the pads)

This is more easy than with thin wire.

Edit:
These old cards are alway good for training and test runs....

Thanks for the tips!
Not needed to re-use components, I'm pretty sure we will have some 0402 SMT components at my company's lab
Next Thursday I have some free time at work and will "re-mod" my module

I upgraded to the last nightly, and the buzzing sound was gone, great.

But the tx-power was not better. I messure the ampers between the plus pole from the battery to the tx, and the value change around 60mw, so it seems it is OK.

But the rage is not OK. With 3mw i get a signal in 1 meter distance, after 1m, the connection brakes.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

best regards, Thorsten

Edit: Add a Image, maybe someone see my fault.

Anyone an idea?

Readd the image in the above post.

First impression, you did not clean the board.
To much solder splashes at different place.

What is below this enormous solder blob? ... a trace...!
May this trace get even in contact with the blob? Is there a short?
The best way is to remove all this, clean the board, inspect the traces and
then apply a bridge from solid thin silver or copper wire.

Last option, exchange the current module with the spare Devo 8/12-s module.


www.hacksmods.com/tag/devo-7e/

The trace is protected, unless he scratched it up badly, there's no way it would have contact.
And I think the solder splashes you see are actually light reflections in the flux remains (which should be removed with alcohol, as flux is corrosive over time).. I thought it was solder too at first.
From an electrical point of view, his connection is sound.. he bridges the left contact pad of the diode to the capacitor, which is connected to the right pad of the diode.
Nontheless, I'd get a multimeter and check if there's an actual good connection (without unusual resistance) between the points. You can just see a line where the fresh solder blob connects to the solder that was already there, which may indicate that the solder didn't connect properly (cold solder spot).