Removing shield and diode 7E for better reach

Does any one knows the value of this capacitator, resistor or what ever is It? I blown mine away




I got it worse and tried this:





Wont work.

Reminder : there is no need to remove the component.

Just bridge on top of it : a lot less risky.

Could the diode be shorted by using a carbon graphite pencil to draw a conductive bridge? Ive read about people on a flashlight forum using this method to turn their multimode flash lights to single mode by shorting a smd capacitor in this way.

Oy - I didn't really grasp just how small all these items were until I cracked the 7e open. Much smaller than I thought. Included a 3.5mm headphone jack for reference. Notice the diode is about the size of the top point of the headphone jack .... I'm pretty new at soldering so this was a test of my abilities for sure. I just cut a wire - tinned it and delicately balanced it ontop and touched the soldering iron to the top quickly. I think I got it on the first shot - but then, of course, thought I could revise it better and spent 20 minutes trying to balance it again.

Also used some kapton tape help prevent me from nuking some of the other electronics - was definitely helpful! There is a wire under the blob of solder...

While we can leave the diode and just short it, this made me look at the HD picture above.
I notice a PTH (Plated Through Hole - a hole which runs from one side to the other that older parts were inserted into and soldered, now just used for connecting between layers to get to the next part).

One PTH seems to be below the diode pad, and another seems to be connected after the Cap pad beside the T212.

Can someone check on the other side of the board and see if one can gain access, if so just run a wire from one PTH to the other and solder them in each hole?

I cant check as dont have a DEVO, but from the picture seems fine.

Just run a wire from via to the first cap.

Kahless wrote: Could the diode be shorted by using a carbon graphite pencil to draw a conductive bridge? Ive read about people on a flashlight forum using this method to turn their multimode flash lights to single mode by shorting a smd capacitor in this way.

i don't think would reduce the resistance enough bud, just use silver windscreen repair paint if you don't want to tackle the soldering

Qapla'

I did a similar mod on a Blade Inductrix (to remove the LVC) with conductive ink, and it works perfect.

Just in case you're still interested, here's a photo of the back of the original module. I just pulled it today whilst installing the 4-in-1. Holy moly - the diode mod was a walk in the park compared to installing the 4-in-1 (i thought).

As you can see I almost botched the whole thing by ripping a portion of the contacts off - I don't know how people get this thing off ... it was a bear for me.

That being said, almost the entire back of the module is covered by another PCB - only a sliver shows through to the other side...

Hi guys!

After a range mode (i have one 7e with diode mod and one with devo 8s modeul) i hato change in the hw.ini only the has_pa-cyrf6936 = 0 to 1 or have uncomment the enable-cyrf6936 = B12 line too?

Thanks

NEED HELP!!!!

Hi guys! while removing the diode, i accidentally pull one of the pad off. Now i am missing the diode but without the two pad bridge. Am i screw or can i do sth eles? will this effect the range in any way? worst or better than stock? Haven't test mine yet since i haven't receive a receiver yet.

hengthanak wrote: NEED HELP!!!!

Hi guys! while removing the diode, i accidentally pull one of the pad off. Now i am missing the diode but without the two pad bridge. Am i screw or can i do sth eles? will this effect the range in any way? worst or better than stock? Haven't test mine yet since i haven't receive a receiver yet.

Can you attach a photo of the damaged area so that we can determine what "pad" you lifted?

Without a photo, my advice is to try to follow the trace(s) leading form the pad and attach a wire there to achieve the previous goal. If I am correct in assuming what pad you lifted, you need to follow the advice above as the idea is to short (bridge) the two pads together. if you lifted the pad, this may have a negative affect on the intended result of increasing power output.

BTW - Based on my evaluation of the component you are referring to, I believe it is actually a resistor in reality as it has those properties when removed and tested.

Component Type Diode or Resistor? <--Click here!

It is a resistor. I have lifted off the pad (circle in blue) (the one that have a resistor before. Can i solder a piece of wiere bettween the two blue dot as i have draw in the picture as the trace seem to be connected from the lifted pad to it.

Hi guys! NEED HELP

I fup again, lift off both off the p ad of the resistor. Now i solder a piece off wire across the two resister as shown in the attachment. Will this work? or do i need to buy the walkera devo s module? Please help im a noob.

This is why you should bridge on top of that resistor and not remove it.

I have a 7e module that I have done the range mod on that I am selling. I removed it from my 7e when I added a 4 in 1 module. Check the marketplace.

The range mod is very tedious. I have done two one by removing the diode and placing a jumper. The second by using conductive paint on the top of the diode. The conductive paint is far easier and works just as well.

Hi All.
The often referred to diode is actually a 10K resistor on my board.
If you make comparisons between the DEVO6-RF module used in the 7e and the WK-21201RF module, then the 10k resistor is replaced by 2 * 200ohm in parallel ... 100 ohm.
Now why that should affect the T212 PA / LNA maybe down to the different threshold voltages for the swpa swtx inputs.
Anyone care to explain this ?

Try one of these.
www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Nickel-Condu...rds=trace+repair+pen

Easiest for me take a piece of servo wires strip a cm or so, then cut away most of the strings from the end, leave a small bundle 4-5 copper or so. Tin the ends with soldering iron. Then bend the wires with a pliers 90 degree, 2mm or so, basically the with of the smd resistor to short.

Now hold the servo wire in place by hand solder it on top of the smd resistor to short it. Then cut away the sticking out servo wire with sidecutter.