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In search of the ultimate Devo7E
- PhracturedBlue
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The UniversalTx is designed as a plug-and-play module for the 6/8/10/12/12e/f12e/f7 (but not for the devo7e). On the 7e, the primary benefit is the ability to use a single antenna with all modules; otherwise it really has minimal benefit compared to the multimod. It may actually be harder to install, since you will need to remove the existing module to install the universaltx.grnd flyr wrote: Forgive my ignorance but what is the difference between the UTX & MultiModule v1.3 (supposed to arrive in a couple days)? Also curious for any pics of the MultiModule all hooked up, i.e. mounting location...
It is your transmitter, you can do whatever you like with it. As long as you don't use 'Deviation' or 'DeviationTx' in a way that is not representative of the product, I really don't care (and if you do there is not a lot I can do about it anyway)PhracturedBlue, fwiw... I found that post from SadSack where he described how he went about it. I ended up using ~ 400 grit mesh paper, swimming in mineral spirits, polished with toothpaste & microfiber washcloth. Worked pretty well... Any offense to using:
DEVO 7E
d e v i a t e d
in stead of deviation? I sure want to give credit where it's due, and much thanks for all the time and effort you and everyone else here has put into this. I just can't wait to turn my 7E for the first time!
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- Cereal_Killer
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grnd flyr wrote: [EDIT] OH, forgot a question... think I remember someone, somewhere mentioning adding red LEDs with them hooked up to the piezo alarm. Anyone have pics of that mod?
www.deviationtx.com/forum/6-general-disc...-leds-are-tiny#34621
I got 2 pic's in that post. Really simple to do and the cool part is the piezo buzzer has it's own FET so you pretty much are free to add as many tiny LED's as you want (hell you could add a second buzzer or a HBLED if you really wanted) they're not being driven directly from a low-current only MCU pin so you've got some current available to play with!
Taranis X9E | DEVO 10 | Devo U7E | Taranis Q7
What I do in real life: rivergoequestrian.com/
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- grnd flyr
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Cereal_Killer wrote:
grnd flyr wrote: [EDIT] OH, forgot a question... think I remember someone, somewhere mentioning adding red LEDs with them hooked up to the piezo alarm. Anyone have pics of that mod?
www.deviationtx.com/forum/6-general-disc...-leds-are-tiny#34621
I got 2 pic's in that post. Really simple to do and the cool part is the piezo buzzer has it's own FET so you pretty much are free to add as many tiny LED's as you want (hell you could add a second buzzer or a HBLED if you really wanted) they're not being driven directly from a low-current only MCU pin so you've got some current available to play with!
Cereal_Killer that's awesome, thanks!
...and it's sad, saw your post before but never the pics, & wished you had at the time... I remember that. It seems that I was surfing with my old browser at the time and it dorks out at times and doesn't show the pic. Pics show perfectly in Firefox or Vivaldi not old Opera v12x. Anyway, this is very encouraging, thanks.
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- grnd flyr
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The UniversalTx is designed as a plug-and-play module for the 6/8/10/12/12e/f12e/f7 (but not for the devo7e). On the 7e, the primary benefit is the ability to use a single antenna with all modules; otherwise it really has minimal benefit compared to the multimod. It may actually be harder to install, since you will need to remove the existing module to install the universaltx.PhracturedBlue wrote:
[/quote]
I'll be happy with just one antenna vs a porcupine, thank you... the original is already out waiting for the 8S upgrade module, cool!
It is your transmitter, you can do whatever you like with it. As long as you don't use 'Deviation' or 'DeviationTx' in a way that is not representative of the product, I really don't care (and if you do there is not a lot I can do about it anyway)
Thanks, I appreciate that.
Honestly, I don't have that "Curlz MT?" font, or at least I don't think I do (need to go through a couple old drives & see if I can find it). If I didn't have the font, I figured I would slosh together whatever I could muster...
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- PhracturedBlue
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Now that I know this, I will purchase a copy of the font for myself, and since we only use images of it on the website and Tx, that should cover the website as well, but for users making a derived work, you're pretty much stuck right now. You can likely still find it online if you search enough, but doing so seems to be a license violation.
Perhaps we should consider replacing the logo, though to be honest, I'm rather fond of the one we have.
This is getting off topic for this thread though. If there is continues interest in discussing the matter, please create a new thread for it.
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- SadSack
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I did try editing bootloader graphics. Best I could do was either remove all graphics and replace with just just random pixels..... So pointless for me.
In regards copper logo + less. I just etched some copper foil and stuck that on back piezo grp board, then soldered smd to that. But driving off piezo sounds a much better idea.
You will find more RCGroups diy electronics / flashy rx both of them.
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- blackmoon
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PhracturedBlue wrote: In the links section on the left. there is now a link to all of the bootloaders I have (including the devo7e_256 variant). I also added all of the legacy firmware files I have since Walkera is making it difficult to locate them these days
Cool! thank you.
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- grnd flyr
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- Posts: 62
Other thing... I've had "cut-to-the-line" pattern labels (for semi-precise CNC-less hole location drilling, rough cutting metal to approximate size) made for me at the local Fedex print shop. You supply the art work & they will size/print the image onto self adhesive vinyl stock or mylar. Cost is minimal, like a buck or two for a dozen or so lables. Easy peasy, have transparent/translucent Logo made, adhere to back side of stock clear plastic lens after old original logo is removed. FWIW #2...
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- SeByDocKy
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- PhracturedBlue
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STM32F103RCT6
It is a 64 pin QFP package, so it really depends on your skill.
Removing the old one is easiest with a hot-air gun and narrow tip. But you can also use ChipQuick, or cut the leads and remove the pins one by one
After removing the chip, I use solder braid to remove the solder from the pads. If you used ChipQuick this is an absolute requirement. It is much easier to align the new chip and get a better solder connection if you do.
If you elect to use solder braid, you should practice with it 1st (if you aren't experienced with it). A bit of flux on the braid as well as a bit of solder can help get the wickingaction going. Set it on the pads, heat with an iron, wait for solder to start absorbing into the wick, slowly drag off the pads.
Installing the new one can be done using an iron and drag-soldering or individually soldering the pins, or by using solder paste and a hot-air gun (I prefer the latter). Either way make sure you precisely align the chip on the pads before you start. I recommend using flux here. Be careful not to move the chip during the process. I ended up tacking down opposite corners to hold it in place.
Once done, use an iron (and maybe some solder braid) to fix any bridged pins. I again find liberal flux here to be helpful.
For me, this process probably took an hour or so, but I am not great at soldering and my hands are not steady. I try to use the hot-air as much as possible, myself. Also take all the advice above with a grain of salt; as I mentioned, I am not a master at soldering, and even through I have the right tools for the job, I often struggle to get good results
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- Cereal_Killer
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Again please dont take this post as calling PB out or saying he did it wrong, he did what was easiest for him and that's all that matters and it very clearly works for him as again he's the one guy that's got it complete, but I've done a lot of TQFP high pin count soldering jobs before and IMO using the larger nozzle to apply heat to all 4 sides at the same time results in a quicker, easier and IMO safer solder job with less errors and when you have all the solder liquified at once it also (again IME) helps to cut down on bridging.
The other thing I do is (after wicking off ALL solder on the pad's) I place the new chip and tack two opposite corner pins with an iron, that will keep it in place, doing the tack with solid solder will usually keep it from melting (paste has a lower melt temp that solid solder so it wont liquidify on you when you're melting the paste)
One final tip, add a few drops of your kester 186 to your solder paste before starting and stir it in well, especially if you're using cheap china paste.
Taranis X9E | DEVO 10 | Devo U7E | Taranis Q7
What I do in real life: rivergoequestrian.com/
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- Richard96816
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- Richard96816
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After a little practice on some old boards it looks like changing out the MCU is going to be reasonably easy. No special tools.
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- Tom
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So maybe a poll would be a good idea to find out how many Devo 7e user here would be interested in this hack and if not an own official version of DeviationTX for that mod would be reasonable after all.
But in any case thank you for all the informations you provide here.
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- mwm
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Tom wrote: So maybe a poll would be a good idea to find out how many Devo 7e user here would be interested in this hack and if not an own official version of DeviationTX for that mod would be reasonable after all.
Didn't ask that question because this mod is more difficult than any of the existing ones, but see docs.google.com/forms/d/10yCwkXLnQUufACc...uQ9q5hU5J9c/viewform
Do not ask me questions via PM. Ask in the forums, where I'll answer if I can.
My remotely piloted vehicle ("drone") is a yacht.
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- Richard96816
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mwm wrote:
Tom wrote: So maybe a poll would be a good idea to find out how many Devo 7e user here would be interested in this hack and if not an own official version of DeviationTX for that mod would be reasonable after all.
Didn't ask that question because this mod is more difficult than any of the existing ones, but see docs.google.com/forms/d/10yCwkXLnQUufACc...uQ9q5hU5J9c/viewform
It only seems hard because people keep stoking the paranoia surrounding it. If you don't have the simple tools and supplies necessary and a good plan it can be hard or impossible. Otherwise, it's relatively easy.
Prove it to yourself with an old motherboard or video card with a similar chip. Removing it, carefully and then solder it back on. A couple times if necessary. It's easy. Easier than adding transmitter modules or switches. A little practice helps.
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- mwm
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Richard96816 wrote: It's easy. Easier than adding transmitter modules or switches. A little practice helps.
Easier than adding switches, maybe - but I personally avoided that one. Easier than adding RF modules sounds hard to believe, as that goes against the common wisdom both here and from places like sparcfun and adafruit. Adding an rf module can be done with nothing but through hole soldering, generally considered the easiest type of soldering. And those are painful enough that Jon Barter seems to get a steady stream of requests to do them.
Personally, I think custom build are lot easier than any of these things, and don't risk ruining your transmitter. They would provide almost as much benefit as the mcu upgrade. So if you can write up a tutorial on doing the the mcu mod similar to PB rf module tutorials, I'll add it as a target, submit a pull request and do test builds until it gets merged.
And then we can see if this mod is popular enough to let us ignore the stock 7e.
Do not ask me questions via PM. Ask in the forums, where I'll answer if I can.
My remotely piloted vehicle ("drone") is a yacht.
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- blackmoon
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- Fernandez
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www.deviationtx.com/forum/6-general-disc...de-the-devo-7e#38278
In addirion with the two extra pots, connected to the two open pins as described in this topic,but:
Will it still be compatible with the excisting builds, can I run the normal 7e builds on the new CPU/Memory?
Will we get new builds and added features for this new ultimate Devo 7e?
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- HappyHarry
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PhracturedBlue wrote: Note to anyone considering this: It isn't as easy as just replacing the MCU. You also need a way to install the bootloader. I use a STLink/V2 (~ $25). You can get chinese no-name SWD programmers for ~$10 from ebay though.
hi PB will this one suffice? >> www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/272154524822?lim...3=80&ff14=122&ff19=0
tia
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