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iRangeX iRX-IR8M 2.4G 8CH Multi-Protocol
- vlad_vy
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- SeByDocKy
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vlad_vy wrote: OK. Can you try next build with wider contrast range and report last contrast value before screen become black.
Attachment not found
It's completly black at 9 .... This one with the default 5 value offers more black than first tested release. I needed to set to 3 to retrieve same contrast as before
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- vlad_vy
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- vlad_vy
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You can find fresh iRangeX iRX-IR8M builds at Builds category:
www.deviationtx.com/forum/builds/7605-irangex-irx-ir8m-builds
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- antennenfreund
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- betoinbeta
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I go to initialize with it and it just doesn't bind.
Tips anyone?
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- betoinbeta
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If I turn off the transmitter I can’t turn it back on.
I tried unplugging the AA battery module and it often times still doesn’t power up.
At first I thought I had a bad batch of batteries but it still does it even with a fresh batch.
Sometimes waiting for more than few minutes does power it back up.
Does anyone else have this issue and possible fix?
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- antennenfreund
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- SeByDocKy
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betoinbeta wrote: Transmitter powering up problem
If I turn off the transmitter I can’t turn it back on.
I tried unplugging the AA battery module and it often times still doesn’t power up.
At first I thought I had a bad batch of batteries but it still does it even with a fresh batch.
Sometimes waiting for more than few minutes does power it back up.
Does anyone else have this issue and possible fix?
Yes the same for me ....
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- vlad_vy
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- vlad_vy
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- vlad_vy
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- SeByDocKy
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with the flashing procedure... with the Vladvy build....
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- Theta2
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When i checked out all of the buttons i missed the click-sound when i pushed down the button S12 (trim backwards).
I've decided to open the radio and i was really really disappointed about what i found, see the attachment.
The second thing is, also attached, that the wheels on top have a totally different zero point. I can fix this, but the button is still missing afterwards.
I'm asking myself, how can someone forget to solder a button on the circuit board. To they not have a quality assurance what will push each button at least one time?
And, the wheels are not the one displayed on all product pages? They show chrome wheels of stainless steel or chromatted wheels what i got are wheels of white steel. So they attract me with a higher quality than i will get. All in all this this makes me feeling like i got ripped off. Thats not a good way to create long term customer relations. It's far away from that.
Did someone else have the same problem with the irangex irx-ir8m? a missing s12 button on the board?
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- SeByDocKy
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Theta2 wrote: I've got my one today from banggood and i'm really disappointed, because of a missing button.
When i checked out all of the buttons i missed the click-sound when i pushed down the button S12 (trim backwards).
I've decided to open the radio and i was really really disappointed about what i found, see the attachment.
The second thing is, also attached, that the wheels on top have a totally different zero point. I can fix this, but the button is still missing afterwards.
I'm asking myself, how can someone forget to solder a button on the circuit board. To they not have a quality assurance what will push each button at least one time?
And, the wheels are not the one displayed on all product pages? They show chrome wheels of stainless steel or chromatted wheels what i got are wheels of white steel. So they attract me with a higher quality than i will get. All in all this this makes me feeling like i got ripped off. Thats not a good way to create long term customer relations. It's far away from that.
Did someone else have the same problem with the irangex irx-ir8m? a missing s12 button on the board?
back luck for the missing DIP ... In the worst can can take one from the throttle ?
For the POT. you can take the allen key to re-install correctly the button ?
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- antennenfreund
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- Posts: 20
The range is VERY VERY BAD with me!
Fuck!
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- SeByDocKy
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- Fernandez
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- vlad_vy
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Can the toggle switch and rotary knob be made into separate functions ?
Yes, with some soldering work. You will need two diodes for that mod. The shoulder switches will be "H" switch and "G" switch.
First, disconnect shoulder switches from mainboard.
Next, we need two diodes connected: anodes to C.6 and catodes (black or white strip) to SWH1 and SWG1. And, SWH switch center pin connected to B.6 and SWG switch center pin connected to B.8.
SWH = C.6 ●--►|--●--○ \--● B.6
SWG = C.6 ●--►|--●--○ \--● B.8
Soldering points:
C.6 -> right horizontal trim positive direction contact = S8 (or throttle trim (left vertical trim) positive direction contact)
B.6 -> SWC switch center pin
B.8 -> SWB switch center pin
hardware.ini change:
;switch_types: 3x4, 3x3, 3x2, 3x1, 2x8, 2x7, 2x6, 2x5, 2x4, 2x3, 2x2, 2x1, potx2, potx1
;May occur more than once if necessary.
;Add nostock if stock FMOD and HOLD switches have been removed.
extra-switches = nostock
extra-switches = 3x4
extra-switches = 2x2
extra-switches = potx2
;
================================================
sw.name__bus(MCU pin # )___diode__switch__bus(MCU pin # )
================================================
SW "H" = PC.6 (MCU pin 37) ●--►|--●--○ \--● PB.6 (MCU pin 58)
SW "G" = PC.6 (MCU pin 37) ●--►|--●--○ \--● PB.8 (MCU pin 61)
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- antennenfreund
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