Jumper T8SG V2 plus transmitter

There is a "lip" on the backpiece that pushes in and limit the height of the battery compartment, you can use a bit thicker battery if its shorter, but have to disassemble to put in or remove, so charge in place. But the most effective solution I found was making a battery custom fit. I bought 4x 850mAh lipo cells from hobbyking and with kapton tape+solder made a 2S2P pack with two "balancing" connectors, one always connected to transmitter with shorter cable and a longer for charging. The battery fits perfectly and gives a slightly overkill 7.4V 1700mAh 40C. The transmitter in 100mW mode draws about 110mA with display on, and 75mA without. So you get about 15h+ with normal usage and display on most of the time, probably 20h+ with normal usage and display dimmed off. Its nice to be able not worry about TX power, and not have to charge every single time its going to be used.
HK Zippy 850mAh DIY cell

The batteryspace in my Jumper is: W63.5 x H17.5 x D66-77mm (W42mm in middle).

I have also swapped places on switches A-H and D-G so I have 3 mode on top and use it more like my old Devo 7. Scraped of lettering, painted new with fine brush and added labels printed on yellow to match indication normal function (A=FMD, H=D/R, B=Gear/Aux).

After much probing my v2+, finally found the switched supply point. Using dfplayer and its separate linear 3v3 regulator. Just making sure the mp3 player module dont mess with the ONLY power supply for whole tx system (w/c is 3v3). There are no 5v regulated outputs here. And also did some mp3 audio swappings. Male and female voice. Will update this post soon for pictures.



Ok here is an update. How I put an external linear regulator. AMS1117 3.3v . Wired in a way that when power is out, its output is also out. Also shown how I manage to make a speaker 'box'. Its from a foam on vtx03 package(never throw those packages, (you never know when you will use em). Would have opted to 3D print it. But was kinda in a hurry to finish it up..so yeah. Notice also how I twisted the pot/switches/hall sensor wirings. Take note the vcc pin of dfplayer NOT connected to main board but through the separate 3v3 regulator(obviously). Though I have also wired this mp3 player directly to mainboard before. No difference in sound(like hissing or other). But better isolated from it. Sorry no labels on pics. PC have no image editor installed. ?

From rc-dc59.blogspot.com/2018/04/jumper-t8sg-v2-plus-deviation.html

good picture with dimensions of battery compartiment:

Have a question

How do you assign the 'goodbye' mp3 when turning off transmitter?

Mine does not...

Rjx wrote: Have a question

How do you assign the 'goodbye' mp3 when turning off transmitter?

Mine does not...

It's currently not working for voice. Moeder is looking at updating voice alerts, I'm sure he'll be able to do something about it

mrsilly wrote: Hi Guys, first post and i have a problem, I have tried to add DFPlayer but get 'External voice currently not available' when i go into model menu.

My ini file is attached, I have enabled DFPlayer and the UART,

I am using 4 x AA Ni-Zn batterys which are 1.6v each currently supplying 6.2v.

I have the most recent stable firmware installed, can any one give me some idea how to fix it?

Also the chip circled in the photo is quite hot, is this normal?

Thanks

Mark

Its not supposed to heat up. Part of the lcd driver circuitry (boost converter 12v). Check flex cable from main board to display. Maybe pinched during reassembly.

Thanks, will check this.

mrsilly wrote: Thanks, will check this.

I think I know what the problem is. The dfplayer board is mounted too low to main board AKA shorting out the smd components underneath. There is 1 big ceramic cap that could be shorting.

Could be the cause. Use kapton tape for isolation

Guys

Help. What pc program and image settings to use in editing bitmaps?

Tried editing splash.bmp but to no avail. It either not showing up. Or all pixels are ON.

Nevermind. Here:
www.deviationtx.com/forum/how-to/4562-cr...s-for-the-devo-7e-10

Thanks again, will take a look at this too.

If you right click on the orignal BMP and select properties then look on the details page it will give you the BMP settings that you must use, e.g for the little symbol (plane, heli, drone etc...) the bmp settings are 16bit 52x36 pixels I edited one of these in paint and it is working.

My 3300mAH battery pack.
Fits in place of the stock pack.
I got almost 50 hours of straight on time with it.

Ok, you're using two batts in parallel. What's the part number or source for the
cells? I've been using a 1300mah pack for now. Kurt

I am totally new with the interface and i have managed to program a 4 ch CUB
Now i am stuck with an oldtimer with only 3 channels.
I want both sticks Ail and Rud to do the same function on the rudder - i simple mix?
I have managed to move the function from the Rud Stick to the Ail stick but want both sticks do the same.

Is there a page in the manual explaining or a thread somewhere on the forum?
What does add replace mult and so on?

I'm not a master at channel mixing but the problem is more that you have to controls giving conflicting signals, and which should be the correct at any moment?
Mixing both with add will be problematic since you can have 100% on each but you get 200% with full on both, or both at 50% gives 100%, and if one stick goes right and other left they will cancel eachother out. But I dont know how if its even possible to make the highest take priority which still a bad idea.

The only real option I can see is to have a switch that select one or the other, both cant be active at the same time.

Mixer settings, with H selecting AIL or RUD stick.
CH2, Complex, 2 Mixers
Page 1 - Switch: SW H0, Mux: Replace, Src: AIL, Curve: 1-to-1, Scale: 100, Offset: 0, Trim
Page 2 - Switch: SW H1, Mux: Replace, Src: RUD, Curve: 1-to-1, Scale: 100, Offset: 0, Trim

Thinker wrote: I'm not a master at channel mixing but the problem is more that you have to controls giving conflicting signals, and which should be the correct at any moment?
Mixing both with add will be problematic since you can have 100% on each but you get 200% with full on both, or both at 50% gives 100%, and if one stick goes right and other left they will cancel eachother out. But I dont know how if its even possible to make the highest take priority which still a bad idea.

The only real option I can see is to have a switch that select one or the other, both cant be active at the same time.

Mixer settings, with H selecting AIL or RUD stick.
CH2, Complex, 2 Mixers
Page 1 - Switch: SW H0, Mux: Replace, Src: AIL, Curve: 1-to-1, Scale: 100, Offset: 0, Trim
Page 2 - Switch: SW H1, Mux: Replace, Src: RUD, Curve: 1-to-1, Scale: 100, Offset: 0, Trim

That is something i usually do with my Spektrum without problems.
Trying flat turns (with crossed sticks) does naturally result in no action.
I rarelly move both sticks the same direction but Spectrum has a limit not to exceed maximum output to the servo - i guess the same is possible with the T8SG.
I managed to fix the function by using the elevon mix (not having any servo connected to the AIL channel) and using the Ail and Rud instead of Ail and Ele.
I am still not really understanding why it works and why it should not be as simple as in the Rud mix just add Ail?

pgerts wrote: why it should not be as simple as in the Rud mix just add Ail?

It could. You can use complex mixer with 2 pages. 1st with replace, 2d with add.

pgerts wrote:

dddddd wrote: Can someone please recommend a SPECIFIC 2s lipo that will fit the PLUS?
Have one on order that arrives in a few days...
I believe that I read that it should measure no larger than 90x30x15mm.
Is that correct? (still looking for a specific recommendation).
Will I need to get a battery connector as well, or is the on that is hooked up to the AA battery holder going to work (not hard wired).
Thanks

I am also waiting for my new TX and cant find a lot of info.
From your dimensions the only battery i find is the Turnigy 1800 2S 12C with dimensions 64*50*14
hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-1800mah-2s-1...o-receiver-pack.html .
I do also want to know if the power switch can be used to get out the battery power to a 7805 to drive the sound and speaker.

Ok,

I got a couple of packs referenced above. NO DICE! Won't fit stock. There is a chance with cutting apart the pack and removing
those two heavy conductor wires and leaving the other two connectors on it might work. It's very close. I don't have any
replacement shrink wrap hence I'm going to stick with a 1300mah pack for now. Kurt

Anyone know why my Jumper V2 Plus is maxing out at 9.09v? I have 4 Li-ions in it so it should be reading well over 16v fully charged. Stock Jumper firmware