Jumper T8SG V2 plus transmitter

It’s easier, cheaper and more capacity.

A 2S 1500 is about $10 shipped. 7.4 x 1500 is 11.1wh

4 x 14500 Li-ions 880mah are $5 shipped. 3.6 x 880 x 4 is 12.6wh. They fit right in the 4 x AA tray

New to the Jumper here. I just got this thing to help train my kids on our toy quads and also on my tiny whoop. Well, now I realize there is an oscillator crystal issue such that my Jumper V2 doesn't like to bind to the e010. So then I thought I would drop my 4 in 1 FrSky multi protocol module in the external bay (FrSky/Jr module bay) on the back of the Jumper, but I can't get the external module to turn on. Any thoughts on how to power up the external module? I did uncomment the line of text in the hardware.ini file and now semicolon is removed:
enable-multimod = A13

When I start Jumper back up, I get some error like multi protocol module expected/missing. I am pretty new to this, but why wont this work? The Jumper says FrSky module bay, and that's what I have.

I'm stuck trying to make this work because this very same external module while in my Taranis has no problem flying my e010 quads. And the small Jumper is ideal for my kids.

Thanks in advance for the help!!

EDU.WES wrote: It’s easier, cheaper and more capacity.

A 2S 1500 is about $10 shipped. 7.4 x 1500 is 11.1wh

4 x 14500 Li-ions 880mah are $5 shipped. 3.6 x 880 x 4 is 12.6wh. They fit right in the 4 x AA tray

afaik from 4 x 14500 used as 4S battery you will get the same energy delivered to device as from 2 x 14500 because of linear regulator in power input circuit. so more than half of your 12.6Wh will be used for heating up this regulator not for something useful

But if you connect your 4 x 14500 as 2S2P battery working time will be 2x longer

I use really with great success 2x 18650 in parallel. I charge via USB.

charger:
www.banggood.com/nl/Micro-USB-TP4056-Cha...rch&cur_warehouse=CN

3v3 step up/down regulator:
www.pololu.com/product/2122

Twilight_Sun wrote:

EDU.WES wrote: It’s easier, cheaper and more capacity.

A 2S 1500 is about $10 shipped. 7.4 x 1500 is 11.1wh

4 x 14500 Li-ions 880mah are $5 shipped. 3.6 x 880 x 4 is 12.6wh. They fit right in the 4 x AA tray

afaik from 4 x 14500 used as 4S battery you will get the same energy delivered to device as from 2 x 14500 because of linear regulator in power input circuit. so more than half of your 12.6Wh will be used for heating up this regulator not for something useful

But if you connect your 4 x 14500 as 2S2P battery working time will be 2x longer

Good idea on the 2S2P, the stock battery tray looks like it will be challenging to modify off of series though

DonkeyFPV wrote: New to the Jumper here. I just got this thing to help train my kids on our toy quads and also on my tiny whoop. Well, now I realize there is an oscillator crystal issue such that my Jumper V2 doesn't like to bind to the e010. So then I thought I would drop my 4 in 1 FrSky multi protocol module in the external bay (FrSky/Jr module bay) on the back of the Jumper, but I can't get the external module to turn on. Any thoughts on how to power up the external module? I did uncomment the line of text in the hardware.ini file and now semicolon is removed:
enable-multimod = A13

When I start Jumper back up, I get some error like multi protocol module expected/missing. I am pretty new to this, but why wont this work? The Jumper says FrSky module bay, and that's what I have.

I'm stuck trying to make this work because this very same external module while in my Taranis has no problem flying my e010 quads. And the small Jumper is ideal for my kids.

Thanks in advance for the help!!

Don't think FrSky makes a multi protocol module. You're talking about a commercial 4n1 that's based on the DIY-MultiModule project?

Leave enable-multimod commented out. That's for a different module.
Set the protocol in the model config to PPM.

What does it mean that the module doesn't "turn on"? If there's a power indicator that shows it's not getting powered then there might be an issue with the power pin in the t8sg module bay.

New here, so I don't know where to post this. Just flew my Jumper V2 for the first time. I used a 72" glider to test range. Rx was a Futaba S-FHSS. It bound instantly! A good start. I flew the glider to speck size both vertically and horizontally. Absolutely no control problems. I'm loving this thing more and more. Now if I can just get my 76 year old head around the programming

---

Walt

Thanks Hexfet!

Don't think FrSky makes a multi protocol module. You're talking about a commercial 4n1 that's based on the DIY-MultiModule project?
My module is the $10 frsky compatible, 4in1 multiprotocol sold on banggood. It powers up in my other transmitter, so i know it works.

Leave enable-multimod commented out. That's for a different module.
Set the protocol in the model config to PPM.
I tried this and the module LEDs do not light up like on my other transmitter.

What does it mean that the module doesn't "turn on"? If there's a power indicator that shows it's not getting powered then there might be an issue with the power pin in the t8sg module bay.
No lights active on the module. Does anyone know what pins are what in the Module bay of the T8sg v2?

The pinout is shown in this post .

With T8SG v2 power on, I have proper voltage at the correct pins. ~5v on power side, and ~3.3V on ppm. Also checked solder joints on module with T8SG power on, and I am getting expected voltages at the external module PDB/PCB. Annoyingly, this module works fine in my other radio.

Here are some pix of my setup. Any thoughts out there? As always thank you all for your time!!

I think the voltage on the power pin is the problem. That 78M05 regulator needs at least around 7V input to function properly. I think the Taranis has battery voltage directly on the JR power pin. The Jumper has a regulated 5V.

You could modify either the module or the T8SG. To modify the T8SG to put battery voltage on the JR pin need to disconnect the JR pin connection from the 5V on the Jumper PCB and connect it to the battery.

Modifying the module means it wouldn't be usable in the Taranis. The top pin on the 78M05 in the picture is the output. Lift it from the PCB and add a wire from the JR power pin to the PCB pad.

A third option would be to power the module with a separate battery.

Hexfet! You are a genius! My Taranis has 8.2V straight from my battery, and with your info regarding the power regulator, that answers that. The other downside is I power the T8sg with 4 AA batteries. Even if connected to batt voltage, I'll still be under-powered. I could put voltage booster from battery to power pin in the bay. Or I could get a good NiMH 7.2v battery. Has anyone discovered a good 7.2v NiMH battery for the t8sg? I already have NiMH charger, don't have 2s lipo charger.

Thanks again!!!

Hello everybody! My Jumper T8SG V2 does not display the icons downloaded from this forum. Why is this happening? Firmware deviation-t8sg_v2_plus-v5.0.0-d90cb3b. I'm getting icons for devo7e.

Hexfet,

Being that you knew the JR bay power pin was regulated at 5v, do you know the current supplied as well? I'm looking at voltage boosters, but they have minimum current requirements. This seems like a lot to me for a little arduino-type pin, but I'm not an EE.

I ordered this one from BG for testing:
"DC 3.3V 3.7V 5V 6V to 12V Boost Voltage Regulator Module Converter Step Up Power Supply Board"

I'm thinking about taking power off the 5v JR pin into a booster and then routing that into the external module so I get greater than 7 volts.

Or if I could get a 7.2V NiMH battery, I'll just connect straight to battery. Too many options!

Thanks!

Hello people of deviation.
Im almost on the way to get a jumper radio but i dont know wich One to choose.
I read a lot about the Plus hall gimbals and OLED screen that is not very good in direct sun light.
About the gimbals, i cant find anything showing that the V2 are indeed diferent from the v2 Plus, but at the product description both says "Rocker way: non-contact 3D space vector Hall joystick".
Basically i dont know wich one to choose in between Hall gymbals over good LCD viewing in direct sun light.
About the firmware, its the same and compatible one the V2 fw and V2 Plus fw?
Hope someone can guide me and help me to decide for the best.
Thank you and sorry my english

Anyone have problem with the hall effect gimbal not being the same on the top and bottom of the stick. For example with the channel monitor my throttle at -100% the yaw goes between -100 to 100. But with throttle at 100% the the yaw goes between -99% to 96. I got the same thing on my other stick.

This was done after a couple calibration attempts.

Re-seating the yaw and roll hall effect sensor appeared to improve the results, but not exactly to -100% - 100.

Maybe the calibration could take into account a 2d stick position instead of just the extents? For example, in calibration measure the yaw and roll ADC at all 4 corners of the stick and use that to map out the whole stick range.

Or maybe I just got unlucky with the T8SG v2 plus I just received?

ksaves2 wrote:

pgerts wrote:

dddddd wrote: Can someone please recommend a SPECIFIC 2s lipo that will fit the PLUS?
Have one on order that arrives in a few days...
I believe that I read that it should measure no larger than 90x30x15mm.
Is that correct? (still looking for a specific recommendation).
Will I need to get a battery connector as well, or is the on that is hooked up to the AA battery holder going to work (not hard wired).
Thanks

I am also waiting for my new TX and cant find a lot of info.
From your dimensions the only battery i find is the Turnigy 1800 2S 12C with dimensions 64*50*14
hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-1800mah-2s-1...o-receiver-pack.html .
I do also want to know if the power switch can be used to get out the battery power to a 7805 to drive the sound and speaker.

Ok,

I got a couple of packs referenced above. NO DICE! Won't fit stock. There is a chance with cutting apart the pack and removing
those two heavy conductor wires and leaving the other two connectors on it might work. It's very close. I don't have any
replacement shrink wrap hence I'm going to stick with a 1300mah pack for now. Kurt

Weeelllll, One can modify this 12C pack to fit the Jumper. Just have to take it apart and cut off those two large conducting wires
and reapply some shrink wrap. I was aghast that the two big wires had minimal insulation between the two freaking conductors and used a dab of foam tape for security against a short. Kurt

Hi all.
I did the mod by following 1st post instructions and everything is working well.
I'm powering the tx using a 2S 800mAh LiPo.

Now I just would like to change some sounds with custom ones.
I'll try this: moeder.pythonanywhere.com/voicepacker/default/index

Edit: WoW! That service is awesome, my custom voice pack is ready. I have to wait tonight to be able to test it.

Rjx wrote: After much probing my v2+, finally found the switched supply point. Using dfplayer and its separate linear 3v3 regulator. Just making sure the mp3 player module dont mess with the ONLY power supply for whole tx system (w/c is 3v3). There are no 5v regulated outputs here. And also did some mp3 audio swappings. Male and female voice. Will update this post soon for pictures.

Ok here is an update. How I put an external linear regulator. AMS1117 3.3v . Wired in a way that when power is out, its output is also out. Also shown how I manage to make a speaker 'box'. Its from a foam on vtx03 package(never throw those packages, (you never know when you will use em). Would have opted to 3D print it. But was kinda in a hurry to finish it up..so yeah. Notice also how I twisted the pot/switches/hall sensor wirings. Take note the vcc pin of dfplayer NOT connected to main board but through the separate 3v3 regulator(obviously). Though I have also wired this mp3 player directly to mainboard before. No difference in sound(like hissing or other). But better isolated from it. Sorry no labels on pics. PC have no image editor installed. ?

Hi,

I'm new to this forum, and I'd like to say thank you for your photos, it's beneficial. I'm currently doing it as described in your post. I'm just waiting for the speaker to test it out. However, I have a few questions.

1 - Could you let me know if and when the DFplayer's led is supposed to be working?

2 - Did you connect the GND pin to the board?

3 - Did you connect Speaker + and - to the board?


Thanks in advance for your help!


EDIT: I'll be testing two speakers:

www.banggood.com/FrSky-ACCST-Taranis-Q-X...89.html?rmmds=search

and

www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07769L35X/ref=...06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

taO wrote:

Rjx wrote: After much probing my v2+, finally found the switched supply point. Using dfplayer and its separate linear 3v3 regulator. Just making sure the mp3 player module dont mess with the ONLY power supply for whole tx system (w/c is 3v3). There are no 5v regulated outputs here. And also did some mp3 audio swappings. Male and female voice. Will update this post soon for pictures.

Ok here is an update. How I put an external linear regulator. AMS1117 3.3v . Wired in a way that when power is out, its output is also out. Also shown how I manage to make a speaker 'box'. Its from a foam on vtx03 package(never throw those packages, (you never know when you will use em). Would have opted to 3D print it. But was kinda in a hurry to finish it up..so yeah. Notice also how I twisted the pot/switches/hall sensor wirings. Take note the vcc pin of dfplayer NOT connected to main board but through the separate 3v3 regulator(obviously). Though I have also wired this mp3 player directly to mainboard before. No difference in sound(like hissing or other). But better isolated from it. Sorry no labels on pics. PC have no image editor installed. ?

Hi,

I'm new to this forum, and I'd like to say thank you for your photos, it's beneficial. I'm currently doing it as described in your post. I'm just waiting for the speaker to test it out. However, I have a few questions.

1 - Could you let me know if and when the DFplayer's led is supposed to be working?

2 - Did you connect the GND pin to the board?

3 - Did you connect Speaker + and - to the board?


Thanks in advance for your help!


EDIT: I'll be testing two speakers:

www.banggood.com/FrSky-ACCST-Taranis-Q-X...89.html?rmmds=search

and

www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07769L35X/ref=...06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi

1 - LED lights when it outputs audio

2 - YES.

3 - YES. for mechanical support.. I have soldered a braided wire/s (blue/white) FROM the DFPlayer going out TO the speaker location. I have NOT used the board speaker layout(but its still connected going "out there")