7e/Ultimate7e, adding the devo version 4in1

Checked Syma X8 today (NRF24L01 module) and yes it has better range than Frsky , but not as good as Devo/DSMX and HonTai protocols !
Yes Hontai has better range than Syma protocol (same NRF24L01 module!) but I believe it has to do with Rx antenna

Conclusion :
CYRF6936 working, range good
A7105 working, range MAX 10 meters
CC2500 working, range MAX 10 meters
NRF24L01 working, range good
my 4in1 is actually 2in1 !

4in1 is tottaly sh#$%t for me, 2 modules going to recycle (that is the best thing 4in1 can do).
All ready order 3 new modules and yes I prefer 4 antennas in my TX than one 4in1 @@ spending my time

Not sure if this was covered, but I have one antenna that ruins the range of my 4-1. No surprise that this is possible. But it's a 2.4ghz from a good manufacturer, put that on and range drops for SOME protocols. Others aren't as badly affected.

Have you tried another antenna? Or several other antennas?

With this antenna range is worse than when i have a dummy load on - but certain protocols can go the distance.

I'd test it again for you but i'm worried the antenna isn't just poorly tuned - but broken so i don't want to risk burning my tx.

CesiumSalami wrote: Not sure if this was covered, but I have one antenna that ruins the range of my 4-1. No surprise that this is possible. But it's a 2.4ghz from a good manufacturer, put that on and range drops for SOME protocols. Others aren't as badly affected.

Have you tried another antenna? Or several other antennas?

With this antenna range is worse than when i have a dummy load on - but certain protocols can go the distance.

I'd test it again for you but i'm worried the antenna isn't just poorly tuned - but broken so i don't want to risk burning my tx.

Oh, yes !
6-7 antennas 2.4Ghz from 2dB - 18dB plus a wi-fi booster 2W !!
I gain 1-2 meters with a good anetnna.

Hello all,

I am new here and just picked up a 7e transmitter. I would like to add one of these 4in1 modules but I am electronically challenged and am wondering if you can just leave the stock (original module) in place and still add the 4in1? I would like to be able to use FrSky and I have a WLtoys V977 that I like to fly. I don't really have the need for all 4 modules, just trying to find the best/easiest solution. I can solder and follow directions but soldering onto small SMD stuff is not something I am equipped to do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
Scot

Hi Scot-
From what I've read in this thread, unfortunately if you want to go with the 4-in-1 you have to remove the 7e stock module. You might be able to find someone on here or rcgroups.com that will do the soldering for you for a fee. You may also be able to find someone selling an already modded Tx.

Hi Scot,

are you sure that it has to be the 4in1 at all ?
And if - perhaps you doesn't need to solder that critical pin at the MCU . . .
Check that out.

Ask the expert people here what modules you really need (unluckily I ain't one) for the helos you want to go with.

Kind regards
Gerhard

Hello guys,
From what I have been reading so far, it seems I don't need the module that requires soldering to the MCU pin. I still am not sure if I can leave the stock module in place.

ScotY wrote: Hello guys,
From what I have been reading so far, it seems I don't need the module that requires soldering to the MCU pin. I still am not sure if I can leave the stock module in place.

If you want to control the two protocols you mentioned above, you only need two modules -
A CC2500 and for the WL977 the nrf24l01. You can check the wiki for links on how to install those. Still requires some soldering skills though but not as much as the range mod or the 4-in-1 into a 7E.

Also when you get those modules, get the +PA+LNA versions and you'll need antennas as well. You can keep the antennas internally and still get good range. I bought modules that came with no antenna but a u.fl connector and then added a u.fl airgain antenna. You can find those on ebay.

Lastly, some have installed an additonal vreg for added modules. See this post www.deviationtx.com/forum/7-development/...dule?start=780#52623

Some have done alright without it but you can read the thread and decide for yourself.

ScotY wrote: Hello guys,
From what I have been reading so far, it seems I don't need the module that requires soldering to the MCU pin. I still am not sure if I can leave the stock module in place.

Just in case it wasn't clear:
If you install the 4-in-1: You must remove the stock module.
If you install the 4-in-1: You have the option to connect 1,2,3 or 4 of the modules. If you connect less than 4 - you do not need to solder to MCU - but removing the stock unit is still mandatory.

From what you've described above, you need the NRF24L01 and CC2500 modules. I think the 4-in-1 is probably the best solution. I don't think that the 4-in-1 requires an external vreg (I wanna say that was more an issue for 3-1modules?. The only hitch is removing the original module - if you only use 3 of the 4 protocols, you can avoid SMD soldering.

Thanks for all the replies...I really appreciate the info as I'm not very informed about how all this works. I actually already have a NRF24 board but then I realized I'd like Frsky capability and then the voltage regulator mod sounds like more work. Discovered this thread and seems like it may cost me a little more (which I don't mind) but will be easier.

I haven't opened up the 7e yet so not sure how hard it will be to remove the stock module. Is it possible to perhaps cut the tabs where they enter the module so as not to pull the pads up? I don't have reflow so I already know pulling multiple pins at the same time is gonna be hard. Just looking for the easiest way out...

Removing the stock module is a little tricky. I'm not very experienced at soldering and managed OK. That being said I did lose portions of the pads as ultimately I couldn't get the module off them and just had to bend repeatedly and snap it off.

I think the 4-in-1 is best just because you'll have the options in the future and only have to deal with one antenna.

I didn't use a reflow station of any kind, but in hindsight that would've been great .... but when I did this mod I thought that hot air guns were just really expensive tools for shrinking shrink wrap

Just used a soldering iron and took a lot of time. You can't just snip it off ... it's soldered onto fairly large pads that are underneath the unit (you can see images if you scroll back through this thread). Some people have reported success with "ChipQuik" solder or something like that. Probably would've helped a lot.

I have limited soldering experience and I used chip quik. It made the job really easy. Melt the chip quik on to each pad then go around with the soldering iron one more time to heat all the pads again and it will come right off. Use low soldering iron temperature if possible.

Okay, thanks everyone once again for the info! I will order some of the Chip Quick and a 4in1 module...I think that's the best way to go for me. A few more questions, if you don't mind?

Does the metal shield need to be removed before the stock module can be desoldered? Trying to make sense of the pics I'm seeing.

Can I use the stock antenna with the 4in1? If not, can I use a simple dipole? antenna? The type with the black lump near the tip?

You can operate 3 out of the 4 modules without soldering to the MCU?

No voltage regulator is required with the 4in1?

Can the 7e antenna housing be ordered as a replacement part?

Thanks again and apologize for all the questions!

Yes the shield needs to be removed. I'd recommend this video

You can re-use the stock antenna. Consider a tube that can be directional. You don't need a replacement part, there are plenty on the market that will fit. There is even a hack (check youtube) for making the stock one directional.

If you get the 4 in 1 module there is no other way to make it work but to replace the stock module with it. Only the 3 in 1 allows you to leave the stock in place. There have been issues with the 3 in 1. I'm not sure if they have been resolved.

AFAIK the 4 in 1 doesn't need a vreg, maybe it has it's own.

Not trying to stir the pot BUT I'm about to give completely opposite advice!

For the range mod: The shield needs to be removed - which should be rather obvious.
For installing the 4-in-1: The shield DOES NOT need to be removed. "Simply" remove the entire module.

While, you can TECHNICALLY reuse the antenna, don't (?). The 4-in-1 comes with a uf.l connector - in order to reuse the stock antenna you'd have to cut the old one, strip away the shielding, address the UFL connector (i.e. mod the 4-in-1 and remove that), re-solder to the 4-in-1. It has a built in connector that makes this easy just get one of these: www.banggood.com/10cm-PCI-UFL-IPX-to-RPS...-Cable-p-924933.html and an antenna... or just this www.banggood.com/3DBI-Brass-2_4G-Receive...-WFLY-p-1032401.html and keep it internal.

You can operate 3 out of the 4 modules without soldering to the MCU - yep. I am.
No voltage regulator is required with the 4in1? - I don't.
Can the 7e antenna housing be ordered as a replacement part? - I dunno. I feel like i saw the 3d print for it somewhere. It really is just a housing - the antenna is just stuffed in there (not stuck in place)
Can I use the stock antenna with the 4in1? If not, can I use a simple dipole? antenna? The type with the black lump near the tip? See above, don't reuse the original, but the type you're referring to will work as long as it's for 2.4ghz. Having an external antenna helps range a lot, but within 100m and full power tx/rx ... i doubt it makes a real difference.

You guys are the best! Thanks so much, I'm pretty sure I understand what needs to be done now. The video was good to watch but it sure looks like you could just clip the row of pins with a fine tipped cutter as it wouldn't matter if that board was destroyed. Then desoldering would be easy. I'll have to open up my transmitter...then I'll probably see why you guys said it can't be done.
Thanks again...now to get some parts ordered!

Give it a whirl! They're just not pins.... I know they look like pins... but they're large pads that extend underneath the module. They're soldered underneath the module. And by soldered I mean - likely pick and place reflow oven style.
www.deviationtx.com/forum/how-to/5955-7e...4in1?start=100#57265

I believe you as I know you guys are all smart enough to figure it all out. I have been looking unsuccessfully for a pic of the underside of the module. No matter though as I've got Chip Quik on order!

You will find that chip quik makes it so much easier. Again, just melt a bit on each solder pad, once you get them all, go back around and reheat all the pads, then you should be able to pull it free. Use lower heat on your soldering iron if you have an adjustable one. Be sure to use solder wick and wick up any remaining solder/chip quik before soldering your wires. Good luck!

I have very little to no soldering skills. I watched a lot of videos on how to remove surface mount parts, and methods. Many people recommend chip quick but I didn't have access. So I practiced adding solder to surface components on an old RC controller and removing them. The solder holding on the 7e module was hard to melt. I had to add a bunch of lead solder to the top two points first and melt all of that, I removed as much as I could with solder wick and decided to work on the bottom section. Again I added a bunch of lead solder all over all of the connections. Kept swiping the tip back and forth. You could feel the harder solder underneath the lead stuff and I kept lightly scraping away at it until it felt smooth. (On the bottom left corner of the original module RF shield, there is a little slot just big enough to fit a small precision flat top screw driver into, I used this to apply very slight upward pressure on the module while I was melting away at the solder below) out of nowhere the front of the module slowly started to come upward and I knew I had it! Just kept swiping back and forth until there was no solder connecting the board to the bottom of the chip. The top was then very easy to finish removing. I used again solder wick to pick up all the extra solder, wiped everything down with alcohol and it was complete. I recommend this method, as I have had almost no previous soldering experience, and it luckily went without a hitch. Just be patient.
I'm dealing with a seperate issue now with a burnt MOSFET ; ; ..but the module removal couldn't have went better. Hope this info helps. Cheers!