7e/Ultimate7e, adding the devo version 4in1

Thanks HH, for the extra few quid I'll go with your recommendation. Just waiting now for the module to be in stock then I can order everything at once.

Would you recommend the 4-in-1 over the 3-in-1 for the Devo 7E if I don't need the range extending, I probably wouldn't fly anything more than 500 meters. I'm just being a bit impatient as the 4-in-1 is out of stock on Banggood but the 3-in-1 isn't.
Thanks

if you are ok with 2 external antennae, or with one of the modules using an internal antenna then the 3in1 will work to a point, but keep in mind the 3in1 has some pa/lna issues with the nrf and a7105 chips. if it was me i'd have a little more patience or order it through taobao

how many modules can i fit in the 7e? would it be possible to just buy the NRF and CC2500 modules and fit them in the back? is that better than the 3in1/4in1 modules? i'm a little concerned about the issues you mentioned with the 3in1 module...

as of yesterday i do see the 4in1 module in stock. Just wondering what is easier and best option. I'm beginner to the RC hobby

you can add 3 separate modules as well as the original module if you want to bud, jfip here's what's now my spare u7e that has that setup



the downside to it this way is the antennae situation, where you either have 3 modules with internal antennae or have your tx look like a porcupine.

as for better/best the 4in1 is without doubt the best option, then i'd say 4 separate modules, then lastly the 3in1 due to it's pa/lna issues imo. as i said to phoenix i'd rather have a bit more patience and wait for the 4in1 to come back in stock, or purchase one direct form the manufacturer using an intermediary site like taobaofocus.com than settle for one of the other options

Thank you! Do you mind assisting me with some links directly to the correct 4in1 module? I went to the website above and it won't find anything under "Devo" "4 in 1 module". Why is that?

Would like to put the 4in1 devo in my devo 7e,also would like add 2 pots,is this possible w/out updating the mcu to the ultimate?In other words can i add the pods to the basic 7e?All feedback is greatly appreciated.

afaik it's not possible to add pots with the stock mcu bud, iirc it's more a case of the code size than adc hardware availability

Thanks Harry but can I still use the 2 3 switches with the 4in1 w/out the mcu upgrade?

Does anyone know the gauge of the wire going to the mcu?I know it's tiny I'm a noob with wiring sizes and the such,any feedback would be greatly appreciated as usual.God bless.

yeah you can still use the 2 extra 3way switches with the stock mcu bud, and i use 30awg kynar wire for the full install >> www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-25mm-30AWG-Insulate...g-Wire-/122010525608

HappyHarry wrote: if you are ok with 2 external antennae, or with one of the modules using an internal antenna then the 3in1 will work to a point, but keep in mind the 3in1 has some pa/lna issues with the nrf and a7105 chips. if it was me i'd have a little more patience or order it through taobao

Harry can you tell me more about the PA/LNA issues ?

It seems as I read on the 3-1/4-1 thread that range, for the 3-1, is almost identical to the one with a Multi-Module or separate modules. Do the issues only affect the telemetry ?

as far as i understand it the 3in1 (and early 12pin 4in1 boards iirc) has no way to switch the pa/lna between functions making the power amp permanently active, so as you say transmitter range is fine but telemetry won't work at any meaningful distance, due to not being able to use the low noise amplifier. another thing to consider in regards to the 7e and 3in1 is that the 3in1 uses 3.3v, pulling that through the already taxed 7e 3.3v power circuitry, i've read more than a few posts about users with the 3in1/7e combo not being able to bind/use certain protocols at anything more than 30mw (it may have been lower power than that but if you search you may find the posts, i'm on the phone just now or i'd try and link the posts myself) due to the power drain being to high for the circuit. is there any reason you want to use the 3in1 instead of the 4in1? seeing as BG have the devo 4in1 back in stock i see no real reason to consider the 3in1

Thank you Harry for the clear explanation.

The reason is I have two of those boards (dang it) and can't get around forking another 80€ for two 4-1

no probs bud , and yeah if i had them in hand i'd probably use them also, as even the 3in1's aren't cheap

It's really a shame that they didn't get around to fix this in the latest 3-1 boards

I bought them thinking they were OK, should have been more careful... well live and learn!

i doubt module solder pads are using traces upward hope no, if so im lost, can someone tell me if can recover this?

the pads use vias to go through to the other side of the main board, if you look closely you will see a small hole/copper dot in the center of the pad area where it is, unfortunately that is where it looks to have snapped on your board bud. it may still be salvageable though as looking at the picture of the diode short you did on rcg you look to have good enough soldering skills to retrieve this, so you can either trace them to the other side and solder wires on there, or see if you can manage to solder to the actual via itself. you may be lucky that some of the pads are still connected though

i tried to remove well but started to pull out from the opposite side, now that i see should start from pads size make hotter with solder iron and pull with cutter .. the glue under module was enogh strong

u mean this pads? is there a hole under? diode short was exceptionally made by a phone tecnician that is good to work with microscope 80x, maybe i can go there and offer a coffee with mainboard
is an old friend, before messing in hobby i was in phone repair business, seelling dedicated programmer to unlock etc ect

all the rest of mod, switches etc is made by me

anyway i tried to attach battery pack and checked pads from bottom left that are gnd and vcc with multimeter i can take 5.2v seem that solder point left is enough
can u point me please

if you look at the pads for the original rf module, especially the very bottom one you can see the circle of solder that is the via through to the other side of the board, but looking at that close up picture in the post above it looks like you have been lucky and have managed to leave enough of the tab to keep a connection to the via, but i'd be very careful when soldering the module back in or adding a 4in1.