RC racing yachts have a very simple, and fairly standard, configuration. Many competition classes - both national and international - are restricted to 2 functions, which translates two two controllable devices, or two channels.
The protocol is DSM2, but even the smallest RC yachts have modular Rx's, so you can change the protocol and possibly re-arrange the channels, and you'll be fine. Telemetry is enabled to get Rx voltage (there is not flight pack), and alarmed at 5 volts. Disable this, or change the alarm to taste.
The throttle stick controls the set of the sheets. I prefer down stick to sheet in, but it's fairly common to do it the other way around. Reverse the throttle channel to taste..
The rudder is controlled by either the rudder stick or the aileron stick. Whether the two controls are on one stick or two is again a preference, and this tries to cater to both. Some transmitters modes may require changing one of the two sticks to get that. Reverse the output channel if required.
The only switch is the ELE DR switch from the Devo 10. That lets the sheets out a bit for some extra power. Change that switch on the throttle channel to suit your transmitter, and the value added to suit your sail tuning.
Two timers, one permanent and one stopwatch. Since all you're running is a pair of servos, battery life is seldom an issue. I've got about 5 hours on my first set of batteries, and no signs of them needing replacement any time soon.
Do not ask me questions via PM. Ask in the forums, where I'll answer if I can.
My remotely piloted vehicle ("drone") is a yacht.
