new blue A7105 installed in new 7e, cant bind
- mwm
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This is actually starting to get funny. I bought a V915 back in August. It showed up with a Tx that wouldn't power on reliably, and would shut off at random. No way am I going to fly with that. It took a couple of weeks bouncing mail off of banggood to get that sorted out. Finally did, and in the middle of the first battery, the main motor dies. Thing falls out of the air. No major damage, but still - I had to order a replacement motor. Except I was disgusted enough to set it aside for a while and do other things. After all, this is a hobby, and is supposed to be fun. If it isn't fun, I'll do something that is.
So the motor arrives, I put a flight or two on it using the stock Tx, and then range test it with the Devo 10. Range is about 30 ft. Hmm. I believe I'd blown the PA on the A7105, but never really noticed because I mostly fly my old V911 with it. So I order a replacement from banggood. All of $10 or so. They tell me that's a "valuable item" and they won't ship it unless I use a verified paypal account. I don't like paypal, but this is my one rant today. I'd been using their credit card option, and they apparently don't like it. So I tell them to shove it, and order one from a vendor on ebay. Which is the one that hasn't left shanghai after 3 weeks in the processing center.
So I've got a heli that's now almost 6 months old that I've managed to fly maybe two batteries on, because it's spent the rest of the time waiting on things coming from China. Which is why I decide to tear apart the Tx's I don't really use much.
But again, thanks for the offer, and the excuse to rant a bit.
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My remotely piloted vehicle ("drone") is a yacht.
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- hexfet
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A hubsan x4 model file will work for the proto x. The flip control is on channel 5 and lights on channel 6. You can run high rates without flipping If you can't find ones for 7e I have them for the 10. You'd have to edit the switches.
Played with my 911 some more and think I was wrong. It just binds every time whether you have a fixed id or not - no need to press any buttons. Slow led flash, then fast, then solid. Didn't have to move the throttle either - blame that on testing before my first coffee. I can believe different models behave differently. Mine has the new battery.
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- mwm
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I tend to write my own model files. That gives me what I want. So here's my Proto X model. This is for a devo6, so you'll probably have to adjust the switches:
1) Timer 1 is a stopwatch, reset by MIX2
2) Timer 2 is permanent. Both run on THR up
3) GEAR1 is a sticky throttle hold.
4) DR1 is lights off.
5) FMOD0 is low rates (70%), FMOD1 is high rates (35% expo), and FMOD2 turns on flip mode.
6) Icons are set up for throttle hold, low rates and flip mode.
I'm still thinking about how to make the automatic flips a bit saner to trigger. I've figured out how to do the flips, but they tend to leave what I'm going to call a bad aftertaste.
Do not ask me questions via PM. Ask in the forums, where I'll answer if I can.
My remotely piloted vehicle ("drone") is a yacht.
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- Cereal_Killer
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Thanks for the file, I'm wondering if I can mod it instead of modding my 7E? I could drop the middle flight mode so I was just using low (FMODE0) and high (FMODE1), would that work? Also I dont need the flip button, I like using the sticks for flips, just need to make it not flip in low. Lets see, then I could just omit the DR1 LED control, I have no bodies on my ProtoX's (so I can strap 150mAh cells on them) and the lights are all I have for orientation so I need those. Looks like I can just change GEAR1 to HOLD1 and drop the middle FMODE, sould that get me going?
Why on earth cant I comment the code?! It only registers semo-colons at that start of a line, anywhere else and it doesnt pick up that you're wanting to comment?! [To me] that's just insane!
Edit1: I see you have telemetry disabled, does it not work on the 6? I've got it displaying model batt level for my protoX's!
Edit2: Well I've taken your file and modded it to something that does fly! I'm pretty impressed with that! I dont have DR working tho, I'm gonna keep playing with it, I'm really worried about files corrupting again before I figure that out... What's the best way to backup my 7E? Just take an image or one file at a time or what?
edit3: Here's my modded version...
www.dropbox.com/s/8tpvgtqpok15s9o/model3.ini?dl=0
Again this is flying, with good [full] control but DR isnt working at all.
Taranis X9E | DEVO 10 | Devo U7E | Taranis Q7
What I do in real life: rivergoequestrian.com/
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- hexfet
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The tx writes to the model files when you use the model. It would overwrite any comments added to the file. Haven't looked in to what resources it would take to expand the filesystem support.
I make backups by copying the whole filesystem at once. It's also faster to edit the model files on the PC and then copy back the changed file.
Your model file is a little wonky in the first two channels. Generally you'll want aileron and elevator rate settings to be symmetrical, especially for square multirotors. The low rate setting is where you want the most expo and least scale; vice-versa for high rate. I've attached my hubsanx4 file for another example (I find the complex mixer easier).
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- mwm
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Yes. the 2/18 nightlies are the latest. I wouldn't update from it unless you find a problem that one of the developers tells you is fixed in a newer version. Going back to 4.0.1 might even be worthwhile, as there are no changes in the 7105 or cyrf handling since then. I only recommended updating to it to help diagnose the module problems you were having.
Yes, you can just edit the switches in the config. Except you don't have enough switches on the 7e. Changing GEAR1 to HOLD1 will work. To fix FMODE, you want to change FMODE2 to FMODE1. That will make it enable flips whenever you're in FMOD1 instead of requiring the FMODE2 you don't have.
Timer reset and the LEDS (if you change your mind) could easily go on something like the Left & Right buttons. The last section of the tutorial walks you through creating a momentary button (for the timer reset) and toggle button (for the lights). Or I could try making a 7E config for you.
Your problem may be that the comment sequence is space-semicolon. But while we call them config files, they really record the state of the model, not just the configuration, and get overwritten every time you use the model. And that doesn't preserve comments. tx.ini will be overwritten if you change the transmitter config. hardware.ini doesn't get overwritten, but only because there's nothing in it that you can edit from the transmitter interface.
Honestly, I turned off telemetry because it never occurred to me that something as small as the Proto x would have telemetry. I want to go beat blade about the head and ears with one! That's so embarrassing I've updated the model config. And also took a stab at converting it for the 7e as described. The flight timer (1) is gone. The box now displays the battery voltage. I've set the alarm to 3.3 volts. And the left button when you're on the main page should toggle the leds. Fixed the icons while I was at it.
Forgot to mention: holding down the Up and Down buttons will cycle through the main page, channel monitor and telemetry monitor. Up goes in forward direction, and down int he backwards direction.
For the record, the devo 6, 8 and 12 don't have telemetry, but the 'S' variants have an upgraded rf module that does. It's hard to find the non-telemetry ones now, and I have the 6s.
I back up mine by copying the file tree over on my Unix box with a "cp -r".
Do not ask me questions via PM. Ask in the forums, where I'll answer if I can.
My remotely piloted vehicle ("drone") is a yacht.
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- mwm
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hexfet wrote: Your model file is a little wonky in the first two channels. Generally you'll want aileron and elevator rate settings to be symmetrical, especially for square multirotors. The low rate setting is where you want the most expo and least scale; vice-versa for high rate. I've attached my hubsanx4 file for another example (I find the complex mixer easier).
Those are from me, and you're right, it's wonky. On channel 2, I managed to set the EXPO to 70, not 35. That's simply wrong. My settings (high scalar of 100, expo 35, low scaler of 1-1 fixed) give you about the same feel near center stick in both rates, but limit the low rates. That's what I want to do with them.
FWIW, I don't see much difference between the Complex vs. Expo & DR mixers on the black & white displays. On color displays, Expo & DR shows you all the settings on one screen, which I find a lot more convenient.
Do not ask me questions via PM. Ask in the forums, where I'll answer if I can.
My remotely piloted vehicle ("drone") is a yacht.
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- Cereal_Killer
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I've been playing with it (my file) and I'm having some problem with the low rate on the rudder, when I switch it on (FMODE1) I no longer have rudder control, it locks the setting (including if it's being used, I can start spinning around, hit FMODE1 and let go of left stick and it will continue spinning) and I dont understand that yet.
I'm gonna load both of your files you guys just posted and see what's up...
When the files went corrupt none of the data in those files showed up and the transmitter didnt work. Seems like it was caused from not ejecting, hopefully it's nothing more.
Taranis X9E | DEVO 10 | Devo U7E | Taranis Q7
What I do in real life: rivergoequestrian.com/
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