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Single-Board Universal Module
- SadSack
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Size is good and simple solder, connected! 3.3>6 volts
Splitting pcb up would fit with my ideas! Still as it is really want one for my FG12.
Also size could stay the same but deeper and 4 layer RF would be smaller (cheaper) and rest could be 2 Layer pcb. Maybe even Arduino style shield!.....
£8.00 so cheap and extra pins
Once STLink is removed Board is 64x64mm and have StLink .
So all in yeah I'm up for it....what next ?
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- SadSack
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Links a little confusing. Say's 2 but price is for 4 piece Lot @ $16.20 US $4.05 / piece
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- PhracturedBlue
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- SadSack
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I found opensource cnc router/paste/pick&place and does manual x,y to x,y pick&place.
Software works with any USB/gcode hardware.
cirqwizard.org/
github.com/simonsalykov/cirqwizard
I've got this on the way..
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-SM...-not/1915894898.html
and
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-1p...ity/32247884705.html <<<<very very fast shipping to UK 7 Days!
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- PhracturedBlue
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Anyhow, bad news: the 3.3V regulator isn't working. I think it is a soldering problem (visually it doesn't appear most of the pads are soldered). Unfortunately I also learned that my hot-air gun is no longer heating. So I now need to see if that can be repaired 1st.
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- SadSack
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Maybe only a break in element?!
cirqwizard runs on Linux. I've installed it runs ok and P&P is simple affair parts here put it there interface.
My thought was make plate for each value either ali or pcb ( could pour parts to fill plate). With parts put in given place so you have right number of parts and angle set for placement. Then (for you) just use x/y axis then you control z axis and pump. Eagle can give out all the placement code needed. Would need to edited code to mix Part place to PCB position. This will always need manual touch which is fine for me. This is just bonus feature all said and done, mill is what I want most.
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- PhracturedBlue
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As far as the UniversalTx goes....My hot-air gun seems to have bigger issues than the heating element. I had a spare, but that isn't the issue (also, it turns out the glass insulator was shattered, so I couldn't safely put it back togather after disassembly anyhow. I opened up the cheap 2-in-1 I've been using for years, and don't see anything obvious on the board. With multiple issues, it isn't worth my time t try to fix it. So I just ordered a new cheap chinese 2-in-1 to replace it. If it lasts as long as this one, I'll be happy. Hopefully I'll be up and running later this week.
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- moss
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- Posts: 40
I have used this to re-flow individual parts on a board, with added local heat from a soldering iron to pick off individual components. It works reasonably well for rework.
On the DC/DC converter you could remove the output series filter coil to remove the load, to make sure the converter is working, and you don't have some short on the 3.3V rail. An DMM resistance check 3.3V to ground would also work.
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- PhracturedBlue
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- mpicpu
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- PhracturedBlue
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open the schematics, and type the following into the entry box:
run bom-xs
(you may need to add the ulp path to make this work. the bom-xs is in the hg repo in the ULP/ subdir)
I have part numbers from Digikey and Mouser (only the Digikey ones have ever been used though). The RF chips are much cheaper from china (and some are only available there)
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- Fernandez
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I beleive if prototype universal module is ready tested working (ppm should be also in the module....) would be best to check hobbyking or some other manufacturar, rc timer, dys, etc etc try to let them manufacture the hardware to sell it, products are so quick on the market and at so low margins, impossibly to come close..... (maybe some people have conections here on the forum?)
This universal module, could make a lot of Tx modules obsolete = less sales., so some manufaturar might not be interested.
To bring deviation TX really to the mass, it should run on a widely available platform easy to buy, "ARM module/board + display module" with plenty of Memory, IO and fatures, future proof. This can be set into or on top of any transmitter, just connecting switches and pots........
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- moss
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- Posts: 40
One of the problems with the ML2730 as I recall is obtaining them can be challenging.
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- PhracturedBlue
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- moss
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DJI's transmitter user interface with a ubiquitous smart phone further makes the typical transmitters interface look old, even the Walkera color screens.
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- PhracturedBlue
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yihua-soldering.com/product-1-3-5-hot-ai...rk-station-en/147667
I really like the sleep mode and auto gun shutdown. It also takes up a lot less space than my old one.
It took me a couple tries (I really hate working on these tiny qfn packages) but I was able to get good joints and the 3.3V supply seems to be working now. I still need to populate the front of the board, and I'm under the weather, so I'm not sure when I'll get to it.
I think the stencil put too much solder on the ground pad and caused the chip to float up. Someone mentioned that could be an issue. the vias may be too small to suck down the solder.
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- moss
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- Posts: 40
Good to hear the DC/DC is running.
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- SadSack
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- Posts: 317
Show where parts should be placed. Can't try it myself but looks useful works with EagleCad.
digitaldiy.io/articles/software/49-eagle...utility#.VVTPPTlwa24
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- Cereal_Killer
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I'm sure your to busy for any type of actual product review, but in short what made you go with it instead of a more common one like another 858?
Taranis X9E | DEVO 10 | Devo U7E | Taranis Q7
What I do in real life: rivergoequestrian.com/
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- PhracturedBlue
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I got it from ebay. Prices are pretty uniform there. eevblog has a few reviews that are generally positive. that was good enough for me. The grounding seems fine, and I've had no issues with it so far(though it hasn't gotten too much use as yet). Apparently the iron has some of the logic embedded which means replacing it is more complicated, but I'll deal with that should the need ever arise. I haven't taken it apart (and don't plan to as long as it continues to work) as mucking around with my tools isn't really high on my priority list.
The screen just has the temp of the iron and air-gun as well as air-flow and the auto-timer. Nothing super fancy, but I'm notsure what else you'd need in a soldering station. I haven't used it long enough to determine how well the PID works. I personally don't exactly fine-tune my temperatures. It is either hot enough, too hot, or good enough, and I adjust the temp until it is the one I want. the iron does cool down very slowly if the air-flow isn't maxed and a small tip is installed. It does not automatically max the air-flow during the cool-down stage unlike my old station.
The tip the iron came with is complete junk and needed to be immediately replaced.
I haven't used it enough to really know, but so far it has met all my expectations. I don't know if it is worth an extra $30 over a bare-bones 2-in-1 but its small size and pretty looks are enough for me
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