Blade 300x with AR7200BX BeastX

I put the ar7200bx in a 450 and had to use channel 7 to calibrate the esc. Worked fine after that.

The 300x firmware defaults to transmitter mode. But I will check it again. Thanks.

Hiya Gents!

My 300x has been a red bomb with white blades! I couldn't even tell you how many woodies she's' destroyed on attempted take offs. I'm starting to think I just really need to punch it once the blades are doing anything besides sitting still and not try to throttle up as slowly.

On the plus side... I can pretty much tell you what each Bx menu item does, lol! 300x parts are rare locally so I also ended up with "bonus" research and tinkering time...

Red Loctite and your stock 320H motor bearings are best friends if you introduce them to each other... Scotch/3m #4010 outdoor mounting tape fixes the "roll to the right" and the align 450 skids add some stability and for me a fighting chance at stopping the bird from tipping on take off.

I cant wait to put on the carbons, but until she starts behaving I'd rather watch the woodies explode than have to rebuild the head due to force transferred from the carbons... sigh...

Will give your config a go when the frame stiffener and the slant gears show up, till then she's "resting"!

Just one silly question... I was going to upgrade my ESC so I could have a governor, was the channel 7 business related to your specific ESC or a Bx thing?

Hope you guys are having some nice spring flights so far!

Cheers!
-=S=-

Much like the walkera rx/fbl units the ar7200bx will not send signal on the throttle channel unless you start up with the throttle at -100.

Spektrum says to power the ar7200bx with a separate battery and pull the 5 volt pin from the esc. Power up the ar7200bx with the throttle low then after the ar7200bx has initialized put the throttle channel to max and power up the esc.

What I do is set channel 7 to simple -100 to +100, 1to1 straight line, source is THR. Then plug the esc into aux2. You can then power up with the throttle stick at max to program the esc.

Same idea works on the gear channel on the walkera rx/fbl units.

Thanks Hex!

Sorry for the delay, you advice is always appreciated!

Cheers!
-=s=-

Stupid question, I got my 300x its brand new. I just installed the 300x set up into my Walkera devo remote. I plan on powering it up disconnecting the motor, make sure the swash goes in the proper direction, can i give it a test hoover? Or do you guys go threw the entire set up and make sure the beastx was programmed properly ect? Also do you have to program the esc? if so how i cant remember?

Hiya!

If your ESC is stock, its good to go.

Page 9 of the 300x manual shows how to conduct the pre flight tests. Know them! memorize them! If any of the tests fail, the manual tells you briefly what needs to be changed, but to understand the changes better, the 7200bx manual has the info you'll need. Don't use the dx6 settings!

You might want to increase the throttle curve at lower points, to power up quicker... Personally I pop it in the air ASAP and then let the ESC finish "warming up" then I goto FMOD1... but I had a lot of tippy problems and that might not be best practice. Throttle curve increase helps power through the resonance that even a perfectly setup 300x has at spool up, minimizing tip over chances.

You might also want to have slightly tighter grips if using the woodies. Also, if you're big enough... spool it up while holding it at arms length. IF it doesn't feel smooth by 35% physical throttle channel, you might want to read some vibe reduction threads before attempting further take offs.

It took me a while to get my 300x dialed in, but I promise you its was well worth the struggle and I learned way more than I expected in the bargain!

Good luck!

-=S=-

hey guys i got the nerve to power it up today, i un did one of the motor leads so i can tell when the motor was on but not chop my fingers off. The throttle hold (rruud d/r) does not seem to work, motor is getting power in any position of switch. Also the swash is not level. Did i do something wrong or is this file not complete for a stock blade 300x?

Hey Hotwheels,

Lotsa questions there bro!

Swash level = not sure what you mean, or what you did... could you elaborate a little?

Here's my 300x ini.

Its specifically setup for devo10... I like to start my flights with all switches in 0 position, makes me feel comfortable.

TH = GEAR1 -> I feel like its easier to flip it up if you run into problems too.
RD1 = activates AUX5 for tail gain
ELE1 = default tail is +30%, flip to 1 and it becomes -30% (rate mode)
MIX = D/R 70/80/100 @ +20% Expo
FMOD = 1/65% max throttle and 0 negative pitch, pos pitch starts mid stick
= 2/70% constant throttle & +/- 100% pitch
= 3/95% constant throttle & +/- 100% pitch

You can trim the gyro if you don't have aux5 with left horizontal trim button.

you can trim the throttle with left vertical trim, but for safety it wont trim fmod1 so you can still land safely.


Hope this helps!

Cheers,
-=S=-

Hi guys. It's been a while since I was in this community forum.
I just recently sold all my Walkera helis and decided to keep my Devo8S for my blade helis.
I just downloaded (last night) the latest FW Deviation 4.0.1.
Everything seems well.
I really would want to be able to use my 8S if I could, & not sell it on eBay.
I got few questions and would be really glad if I could get answere and help to my few questions:

1. Any recommended model file for my stock 300X. I currently using my DX6i (DSMX).
2. Is there any other battery I could use to replace the AA Tx batteries? Such as lithium mod. The AA don't last very long.

3. Using my Devo8S, and the latest FW, which channel would be the gyro gain?. I just want to make sure and be prepared setting up my 300X

Thanks

2. I would just use eneloops or some other LSD NiMh battery, Others may have used LiFe or LiPo but 2S batteries are 7.4v nominal and the 8s says 4 AA = 6.0v. It might work with some way to pull down the voltage with a simple voltage divider circuit, but others can probably chime in.

3. It should be under Transmitter Config, not in any of the models.

4. Depend on protocol used. DMSx = Channel 5, Devo = Channel 7 IIRC.

More info: Another forum had info that the input range is 4.0-8.0 v DC so a 2s would work, just remember that if you install a LiFe or LiPo you cannot use the charge jack on the Devo, you must charge it outside the tx with the proper charger.

Yes, I am currently using the Sanyo 2000mAh Eneloops. This 8S Tx sucks so much juice.

Good to know that the Devo8S operating voltage is 4V-8V. So the 2S LiFe might be an option

I just tried using the 300X file (above). Took out the blades and bounded with the heli. I found TH is on my the gear switch. I tried to change the gear switch to "NONE" (no mixing) so it would not be active, but it did not make any difference.

I have swapped the Left and Right shoulder switches.
I need to use the right shoulder switch (rudder D/R) as my TH. I should be able to figure that out,but I am confused why the TH is still on the Gear Sw, even after I changed the mixing into "NONE".

Utilizing the Blade 300X file (above), I took some picture regarding the throttle hold issue.

- On the first picture (img.2144) it shows that the Gear switch is "NONE", not active? I suppose.
- Second picture (img.2145), I am on full throttle stick position, monitor bar shows that I am running full throttle, with the Gear switch on DOWN position.
- Third picture (img.2148), toggled the gear switch to UP position, executes throtlle hold

Easy answer:

Look at [channel1] and tell me what you see.

Hint - safetysw
Hint - It's set on with Gear0
Hint - the value is -100 when on

So how would you change it to be switch up normal throttle, switch down throttle hold.

Hint - Gear1 is the switch in the down position

Sorry but I don't have an 8s to help out here, all I know is a devo10 config doesn't convert so well to other devo setups without some adjustments.

While this pause might seem frustrating now, its forcing you to learn more about why the Tx makes magic happen and helps better understand the hobby!

Hope it works out well for you, Good luck!

Thanks for the help guys.
It's almost midnight here, and just checking my email before going to bed.
And yes, it's working now just following those you guys just said.
It's very late, & don't want to wake up the kids.
Watching the channel monitor bars, I know it's good now.

One more thing, why is it that the rudder servo is barely moving even with full rudder stick both directions? Watching the rudder monitor bar, it shows full up & down bar. Whenever I bind it back to my DX6i, all is okay. Then bind it back to my Devo8S, rudder barely moves
Otherwise, I think I am ready for a test flight.

Thanks again...

Scream, no worries. And yes you're absolutely right, this thing makes us think and makes it very ineresting. I'm getting there. Like I mentioned, just downloaded the latest FW last night, and been playing with it. I'm loving it.
I've this Tx for over a year, but din't bother to learn Deviation. I am Futaba guy but has a few Blade (Spektrum) products. I think it's about time to switch from DX6i to Deviation.
I created a file for my 130X, and flew 3 batteries this morning. Everything working GREAT!
Here is then file I use...

Yes, it is on the bench (not moving).
But with the DX6i, I could move the tail servos with the rudder stick, even if the heli is sitting on the ground.

Hey again gents,

ITs both!

Dx61 I believe is spitting out +/- 150 and devo by default is only at 100... just redo menu F on the beast X for it to expect lower values for full travel.

The pitch lever should be able to max travel, it will be slow as !@#$ to return if you're on the bench due to lack of movement, but it should move all the way.

Gyro also will be insane if you use the manuals value... try 25-30 and it should be pretty tight.