I need a Blade 200 SR X model .ini file for DEVO 8

I need a Blade 200 SR X model .ini file for DEVO 8S please, if any one has one. There are a few floating around from last year but not without issues. I am hoping that someone has it figured out because I can't (frustrated). Thanks, Barclay.

What are the issues you're having? Since their aren't new configs, presumably other people don't have those issues.

Also, any Devo 10 model.ini should work on a Devo 8S, so long as it doesn't use the two extra dials on the 10.

Hi, the ini file that Stavross made, as he said, he used the latest nightly build because he could not get switches to work properly on his DEVO 10. i am using 4.0.1 and asked if it will work on that but did not hear back, wondering if I will have switch issue but don't want to find out the hard way. It also does not have duel rates. I tried adding them in the GUI but ran into weird stuff, could not get it to work. May have to do with complex mixes which are over my head. I mimicked the GUI from the file that works for my V120D02S that Tom Z. made. The other ini file was made by you and you stated two issues. " It doesn't seem to autolevel in high angle stability mode. The panic button works there, so it can, but doesn't." That concerns me but it was a long time ago. If you have sorted out I would love to have the new copy. The one about needing lots of throttle to get off the ground is normal for stock 200 SR X's, no problem. Aside from changing the pinion and increasing motor gain, which will wear out your motor and ESC faster so I do not recommend, Xtreme makes a set of 8 degree pitch blades that works great. GoNitro Hobbies on eBay has them in stock in the US, about $10 and change with shipping. Also, I was trying to change the switch setting on your file because I prefer low to be on 0 and high on 1 for D/R and throttle hold off on 0 and on in the 1 position just because I am used to it that way. I got the D/R changed by changing the values in the GUI but was unable to change the throttle hold setting. As nit-picky as that may sound, I am really used to it being off on 0 and activated in the 1 position, my reflexes could cause catastrophic system failure. Any help, as always, is appreciated and check out those Xtreme blades. Thanks, Barclay.

The issue with not auto-leveling was a bug in the Spektrum receiver. I returned that one and got a second, and it worked fine. HH eventually admitted to the problem, and started replacing the Rx'es that were doing that.

I've attached the latest version of my 200SRX model. I have fixed the TH so it's on when the stick is up, which is what I believe you want. You should only have needed to change one thing: the RUD DR switch in the third mix of virtual channel 1. Possibly the "sticky" nature confused you. TH won't go off unless the throttle output is 0. That way, you don't get the blades spinning up if someone bumps the RUD DR switch, or you turn it off on a CP heli in the wrong flight mode, etc.

I haven't fixed the D/R issue, since you managed to fix that yourself before.

Also, this has my " dialable stagility " mode. It will automatically switch from intermediate to expert mode with "enough" cyclic throw, where "enough" is set by AUX5. You get a warning if it's not at -100 when the model is activated, which is the setting for "never go to expert mode". If you don't want to read the blog entry above, which covers the programming, you can just watch the video demo . If you don't want to use it, just leave AUX5 dialed down to -100%.

I'll look into the GoNitro Hobbies blades. However, I tend to avoid PayPal since they tried to rip me off back around 2000. Does GoNitro sell through another store front?

My thoughts on making the 200 SR X get off of the ground better following this. But first, thanks for helping me with the settings big time! You and the rest of the Deviation community are awesome! After watching the "dialable stagility" video and reading the blog, I am confused. The video shows a dial on a DEVO 10 to make adjustments and the blog says use the mix switch. I use a DEVO 8S (no twist knob-dial) and if I understand correctly, if I put the 8S mix switch on 0, I will not have any stagility effect, correct? Regarding increasing the lift on the 200 SR X, there are four basic things to consider. Blade pitch degree, motor gear ratio, motor gain and battery weight. There are pro's and cons to all except for the blades, pro's only. I strongly recommend the 8 degree pitch main blades from Xtreme just to make this a good stock machine as this bird needs help getting off of the ground and pulling out of a quick descent. It will double your flight time by allowing you to use the second half of your battery and not wearing out the first half out by staying at 75% to 90% of your throttle just to keep it out of the dirt. These blades are a bit more rigid yet more durable than stock, made of carbon polymer. They make a 6 degree set as well which is stock pitch yet stronger so make sure you get the 8 degree. Regarding the motor gear ratio, the stock pinion is an 11 tooth. A lot of people are going to the 12 or 13 tooth which will increase your head speed and therefore lift but will make your motor run at lower RPM's to achieve the same lift witch can cause your motor and ESC to run hot. Brushless motors and ESC's like to run at higher RPM's than brushed and will over heat if bogged down. The 8 degree blades have the same bog effect (slightly) but it is an irrelevant amount by themselves. If you do go to a 12 or 13 tooth gear, make sure to adjust the motor mounts for proper gear mesh. Regarding the motor gain increase, Horizon has a video of how to increase it from 100% to 200% but that is the last thing that I would recommend. 125% to 150% maybe after doing the other mods if you really want to light up the sky. 200% will cook your motor and electronics prematurely. Battery weight and quality is also a consideration. I just heard of using a 500 mAh high end 50C battery witch is much lighter therefore increasing lift per RPM and is rumored to have an 8 minute flight time due to the lighter weight. I have not tried that one yet but it makes sense as long as you move it forward to maintain balance. The stock batteries are junk. I am using the Lectron Pro 950 mAh 30C which is way better than stock, cheaper, only two and a half grams heavier and lasts twice as long if not more. Hope this helps and thanks for all of yours, Barclay. PS, MWM, regarding your stance on PayPal, the only other places that I have found the blades are at Heli-Nation (currently out of stock) and from the manufacturer, Xtreme which is about two weeks delivery time.

I'm sorry - it completely slipped my mind that you were using the 8S. For testing it, watch channel 5 in the channel monitor. It should be:
-100 -> expert mode, 0 -> intermediate mode, 100 -> beginner mode.

There are three different ways you can change this:

1. Remove stagility mode. Change channel 5 from 4 to 3 mixers, then change the switch on the second mixer from Virt4 to FMODE2.
2. Remove the "dial" functionality, so that the switch to agility always happens at the same point. This would be changing mixer 3 of virtual channel 4 to a fixed curve type with a scale between -100 and 0.
3. Use one of the extra trim switch pairs as a "dial". Details on creating the dial input are in the last section of my model config tutorial . You would then change mixer 3 of virtual channel 4 to use that virtual channel as an input instead of AUX5.

That tutorial walks you through creating my 200QX config, adding functionality as it goes. The 200SRX config is based on an older version of the 200QX config. Except for rewriting the flight controller init (which the SRX doesn't need), it's mostly just cleaning and tightening things up a bit. Might be worth reading if you want to figure out what's going on in my config.