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7e/Ultimate7e, adding the devo version 4in1
- Phoenixx
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I took the controller apart and checked the voltages and I'm getting 4.5v to the 4-in-1 which I assume is ok.
I then took the antenna off so I could check the pigtail connection and noticed that because I'd cut the old fake antenna off too far down I had to use a washer on the inside to stop the pigtail from pulling through the opening. I used a nut on the outside to fix it in place but this only left about 6mm of thread for the antenna to screw into which wasn't enough for the contacts to connect. So basically I've been using my TX without an aerial since I did the mod which is why the range was so poor.
I've tested the range now in the house and where I used to lose signal in some rooms on 150mw I can fly it all round the house on just 10mw.
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- HappyHarry
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- ursus69
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HappyHarry wrote:
ursus69 wrote:
HappyHarry wrote: Ursus69 if you only have 3v at the rf module header pin while you have 5V at the diode then you have other issues
I connected the 4in1 to the diode (5v), but I also had bad range...
What could be the problem?
have you checked the 7e antenna on your d10 to rule it out? also worth checking that the u.fl connector is seated properly and not damaged. is it all protocols you have bad range with?
but as I already said you have other issues, the stock RF module has it's own 3.3v vreg and needed >3.6v to provide 3.3v to the chips, hence there only being 1 diode between vbat and the header. I'd be looking to solve this issue before worrying about range as that tx isn't really safe to fly with as is imo
HappyHarry,
What diode need to verify? Or change?
You left me with the doubt....
Thanks again!
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- HappyHarry
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as there is only 1 diode between the battery voltage and the module header it means that if you are getting 5v at the diode the minimum you should see at the header is 4.3v (5v - 0.7v maximum for the drop across the diode) plus the 4in1 needs >3.6v to work properly so when you said you have only 3v at the header it has me worried
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- ursus69
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HappyHarry wrote: I didn't say to change the diode bud, I said you need to work out why you only get 3.*v at the module header while getting 5+v at the diode. there is something wrong with your 7e that is causing this.
as there is only 1 diode between the battery voltage and the module header it means that if you are getting 5v at the diode the minimum you should see at the header is 4.3v (5v - 0.7v maximum for the drop across the diode) plus the 4in1 needs >3.6v to work properly so when you said you have only 3v at the header it has me worried
Thanks HH,
I will check it!!
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- Desode
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Is it easier to do the 4 in 1 on the 8s?
I can't find much on installing the 4 and 1 module on the 8s.
I know that it is a much simpler install on the devo 10 and 12E then it is on the 7E and I am wondering if that is the case on the Devo 8s?
The 7E requires the original module to be removed first,,while the 10 and 12E don't require this.
What I need to know is how does this install go on the Devo 8s and is it worth grabbing the 8s to do the 4 in 1 mod on, over doing it on the 7E?
I like the size of the 7E but for $100 if I can do the 8s without removal of the original chip like with the 10 and 12E ,, then I may go that route.
Opinions or advice?
Thanks very much for your time and your reply.
Sincerely Matt
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- HappyHarry
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- colin911
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- ClittleJ
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Be careful.. it's an addiction lol. The 2 extra 3 way switches is an easy mod as well and opens up a lot of possibilities. Not to mention makes it look bad ass!
Cheers!
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- Chimera
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I wasn't brave enough to solder to the MCU yet but I connected the modules with single-pin jumpers so if I need CC2500 vs NRL2401L for example I can just open, swap the jumper and change the hardware.ini. When I'm more competent with soldering (nice job Colin, yours is much cleaner than mine!) I'll solder the 4th module but for now I have no models that need CC2500 anyway.
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- HappyHarry
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- RNM75
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Chimera wrote: Yes indeed, thanks to everyone in this thread for the knowledge to successfully perform the 4-in-1 mod and all of the other mods that the Devo community has come up with! Here's my 7e all buttoned up and ready to fly with rechargable AAs, extra switches, 4-in-1 w/removable antenna, and LEDs to show power is on.
I wasn't brave enough to solder to the MCU yet but I connected the modules with single-pin jumpers so if I need CC2500 vs NRL2401L for example I can just open, swap the jumper and change the hardware.ini. When I'm more competent with soldering (nice job Colin, yours is much cleaner than mine!) I'll solder the 4th module but for now I have no models that need CC2500 anyway.
Is there a tutorial for adding leds to show power on? Thanks.
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- Chimera
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- RNM75
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Chimera wrote: this should be all you need : www.deviationtx.com/forum/6-general-disc...987-light-on-devo-7e
Thank you!
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- colin911
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ClittleJ wrote: Awesome! Nice clean job bud
Be careful.. it's an addiction lol. The 2 extra 3 way switches is an easy mod as well and opens up a lot of possibilities. Not to mention makes it look bad ass!
Cheers!
Thanks! I don't know if I need the extra switches at this point but I'll add them anyway for fun
Where do you get the labels that go under the switches that have SWA and SWB?
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- Chimera
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- colin911
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Chimera wrote: A very nice guy on here made a bunch, go to the thread here and click on the photobucket link : www.deviationtx.com/forum/custom-skins/6...evo-7e-switch-labels
Cool thanks !
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- Phoenixx
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- RobC62
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Phoenixx wrote: Nice work Chimera, where did you get those colured switch screws they look mint.
Coloured Switch Nuts
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- Chimera
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